Kubota L2502 DIY Cab

SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
I built a ROPS for my dozer with some add on's like you are doing
the only thing that I will suggest, be sure you can get to everything that you need to as for as maintenance goes without getting in the way
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The cab wont be fully welded together but more bolt together. Not going to be fun to remove but should only take an hour to fully remove.


Side track project to make a storage location for the plasma torch.
Plasma cart 2.jpg


Picked up a Everlast 82i for $1200 which should help with trimming the windows opening into the sheetmetal. I wanted a Powermax65 again but $4300 was hard to swallow when the Everlast can be replaced 3 total times before equally the cost of the everlast.
Plasma Cart.jpg


Mini Kill Dozer ish
Passenger side.jpg


Window pre glass opening
Window precut.jpg


Quick setup to act as a guide for the plasma torch. The 3in radius corners were handled by hand. 2in fireball shims used to offset the angle iron which will give about 1.5in of sheetmetal all the way around.
Plasma cut guide.jpg


Right side status.
Right cab.jpg


Left side curve was pissing me off so cut off the old stuff for the new rolled pieces.
New curve.jpg


Had to relieve some tension I had in the bars. Made one cut with the cut off wheel. Spread about 3/8 of inch
Relieve stress.jpg


New curve on door
New curve 2.jpg


Replaced sheetmetal with a new piece to fix some issues.
Plasma trim.jpg
 
ridered3 said:
Really enjoying seeing this come together!
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Just wish I would stop going two steps forward and one back. Not sure how much my latest annoyance will get to me.

Door fix check 2. Such a waste of material since I redid the panel.
Door test.jpg


Little bit of a misfit on the lower tube. Not sure how that happen.
Misalignment.jpg


Fix the misfit
Tweak fix.jpg


**** my air filtration system for the garage was a little dirty
Air Filter.jpg


And my annoyance. Not sure why I didnt extend the sheetmetal to cover the side tubes. Unsure what I will do to fix this yet. Its really pissing me off.
Windshield cutout.jpg
 
You are your own toughest critic…and think of this version as the prototype.

So next time around, you can make the necessary changes that the prototype points out.
 
ridered3 said:
You are your own toughest critic…and think of this version as the prototype.

So next time around, you can make the necessary changes that the prototype points out.
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Just sending it tomorrow. I can always paint what I fix.

Made a mid panel mount to help stiff everything up. Both sides have this feature.
Middle panel mount.jpg


Window cut out for the rear panel
Rear window mount 2.jpg


Finally found a use for the mag drill I acquired 6 or 7 years ago for free. I believe the drill is a Hougen drill from 1994 after finding a brochure still in the case. A small pilot hole was drill all the way through the panel to keep the alignment of the release latch to the handle. The handle had 3 mounting screws and a 1.125in counter-bore for the lock button.
Mag Drill spot drill.jpg


Flipping the panel over I was able to use the pilot hole to align the $25 dollar 1-1/8 annular cutter purchased off amazon to cut the hole for the handle lock button. I had to get creative in both setups to get the proper down travel and alignment to the hole. A steal disc and a few shims allow the drill to be the same plane as the panel.
Mag Drill annular cutter.jpg


Window handle had to be angled a little to avoid the window gasket seal.
Window handle.jpg


Door handle.
Door handle.jpg


I had to offset the handle to avoid blowing out the T section completely. Keeping the sheetmetal as one sheet should help with the overall strength of the door panel even with the material removed.
mag drill cut.jpg


Hopefully the paint setup doesnt come back to haunt me. I was lacking areas to hang the panels so I installed unistrut into the ceiling to hang the panels but still retaining a clean look when not in use. The unitstrut allows for adjustment in placement of the panels. Originally the paln was to use 1/8 rope for the hanging but decide to switch to some cargo straps since the rope was stretching alot. On the plus side I can adjust the strap height for each one. The work area still needs a little more cleaning and cloth covering for stuff I was to avoid over spray on. Also need to add a alignment string to turn the pieces so they dont touch.
Hanging paint.jpg
 
ridered3 said:
You are your own toughest critic…and think of this version as the prototype.

So next time around, you can make the necessary changes that the prototype points out.
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Exactly. Sell this one for enough to make it worthwhile to you to someone who is overjoyed that they aren't spending the full OEM price and build DIY Cab 2.0.
 
ridered3 said:
Really enjoying this thread.
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Glad people are enjoying the thread.

PAToyota said:
Exactly. Sell this one for enough to make it worthwhile to you to someone who is overjoyed that they aren't spending the full OEM price and build DIY Cab 2.0.
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Maybe in the future but not sure the total price I have into this either.

Used some strings to stop the panels from rotating.
String alignment.jpg


Managed to lay down the rusteleom clean primer paint onto the panels. Had a few runs on the panels and only hit 3 panels with my body. Not a big deal since its a tractor not a car.
primer.jpg
 
The panels received two coats Rustoleum Farm and Implement Kubota orange paint with some Majic catalyst hardener mixed in.
Kubota Paint.jpg



I need to modify the garage to be a temporary paint booth to avoid getting over-spray over stuff but that is a future project. Mineral spirits took care of the flat surfaces and the floor will be cleared the next time I pressure wash it.
overspray.jpg
 
Pressure washer may not get the paint off the floor. I still have ford red on my concrete from restoring an 8n 5 years after the fact. The hardener and porous concrete seem to love each other.
 
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You OEM+'d this for sure. I;m looking forward to seeing it together :beer:
When I spray from a Gun in my Garage I cover everything that I don't want tons of over spray on and wet the floor. I use welding blankets, Old Bedsheets, and I have some convention table size table cloth's that i rescued. You can pick up the over spray off the floor with dragging the mop to pick up most of it.
 
rockota said:
Pressure washer may not get the paint off the floor. I still have ford red on my concrete from restoring an 8n 5 years after the fact. The hardener and porous concrete seem to love each other.
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I should be able to wash it off the epoxy floor with the spinning disk on the 4,000 psi pressure washer. Otherwise I will just leave it alone.

ANGRYBLACK said:
You OEM+'d this for sure. I;m looking forward to seeing it together :beer:
When I spray from a Gun in my Garage I cover everything that I don't want tons of over spray on and wet the floor. I use welding blankets, Old Bedsheets, and I have some convention table size table cloth's that i rescued. You can pick up the over spray off the floor with dragging the mop to pick up most of it.
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Im scared to see what my total will be for the project at the end.

So far, I did throw in the roll bender and plasma cutter for my wife's benefit. Otherwise its $1k so far.

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Does anyone have experience with Locking window gaskets or have suggestions for mounting the glass into the panels?
 
Some regular locking window gasket, like Mcmaster pn 3275T22

Don't cut the glass too tight, use plenty of slicktion and a little plastic stick/screwdriver like thing to fold the lock in.
 
Dethmachinefab said:
Some regular locking window gasket, like Mcmaster pn 3275T22

Don't cut the glass too tight, use plenty of slicktion and a little plastic stick/screwdriver like thing to fold the lock in.
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Not sure why I forgot to check Mcmaster again since I use it almost every day for work. Trim-lok wanted $100 for shipping and handling for the same product versus $25 from Mcmaster.

Panels measure out to roughly 67 feet I believe but orders are 5,10,25,50 or 100 ft increaments.
1739163439884.png
 
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Well I might have ****ed up in a annoying and frustrating way. For some reason I cut the panel radius at 1.5 inches instead of 3 inches as the specs for the locking gasket calls for. Maybe I can get away with it but if not I will either need to recut the panels opening a little bigger to adjust the radius or weld a filler piece for the corners.

Either sendcutsend or oshacut could make these for $75 dollars for 40. But I will wait till see how the gasket can lay down in the current corners first.

1739235907403.png
 
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Fixing the panels will take a few hours total so maybe a couple days working after work.

1.5in radius against the orange and 3in radius on the inside of the cut out.
6in radius insert.jpg


Weld setup
6in radius insert 2.jpg


6in radius insert 3.jpg


6in radius insert 4.jpg


Guess this weekend I will be repainting the sections that I had to grind.
 
Duc said:
Fixing the panels will take a few hours total so maybe a couple days working after work.

1.5in radius against the orange and 3in radius on the inside of the cut out.
6in radius insert.jpg


Weld setup
6in radius insert 2.jpg


6in radius insert 3.jpg


6in radius insert 4.jpg


Guess this weekend I will be repainting the sections that I had to grind.
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One step forward and two steps backwards.
 
ridered3 said:
One step forward and two steps backwards.
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dman33733 said:
Glad to see I'm not alone. Some projects only two steps back, I feel pretty lucky - and they don't look nearly this good!
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If I had waited till the window gasket arrived then I would still be ahead on all the panels. Turns out I was correct on the min radius that I originally designed for but Mcmaster listed something different.

Mcmaster part that arrived. Turned out to be the Trim-lok part I was looking at anyways
Gasket seal.JPG



Specs on Mcmaster website
Mcmaster Locking gasket specs.JPG



So now I only need to paint two panels again. FML
 
That's been about my only complaint with McMaster - they sell a lot of name brand stuff, but they don't actually tell you it's the name brand stuff. Sometimes you can figure it out from the specs and data sheet, but when they they **** up like that, you can't go compare it to the actual manufacturer's data because you can't be sure who the manufacturer is.
 
bgaidan said:
That's been about my only complaint with McMaster - they sell a lot of name brand stuff, but they don't actually tell you it's the name brand stuff. Sometimes you can figure it out from the specs and data sheet, but when they they **** up like that, you can't go compare it to the actual manufacturer's data because you can't be sure who the manufacturer is.
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Mcmaster will tell give you the info when you call since they do change sometimes. My wife likes to remind me that if I had patience that I wouldn't be repairing 2 panels. 1 day of waiting for hours of work. :homer:
 
Made some paper patterns to check the sizes of the window. Wish I had a cheap project to mount on to the ceiling to project a image down onto the table. Then I could adjust stuff on the fly. The decision for make versus buy will depend on the cost from the glass shop once I have the patterns done.

Passenger window pattern check.jpg


Used the shim kit to set the paper at the same level as the sheet metal.
Lower rear window fit check 1.jpg


Lower rear window fit check 2.jpg


The windows should be designed for .300 spacing from the sheet metal on the perimeter. The nubs are .250in in height but actually shouldnt touch the sheet metal since I added .050 on each side. The locking gasket required at least .250in.
Lower rear window fit check 3.jpg


I screwed this one up bad in the corner. For some reason I measured the distance off by about 1.5in
Upper rear window check 1.jpg


Passenger panel lower check 1.jpg


Arrows show the adjustment I need to make to this one.
1739588031749.png



Windshield Check 1.jpg
 

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  • Passenger panel lower check 1.jpg
    Passenger panel lower check 1.jpg
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Decided to go the route of 1/4in lexan or polycarbonate with additonal UV stabilization to help with yellowing. The glass quote came in at $2700 for laminated glass locally which is more than I want to spend. Each sheet of lexan ran $200 from a local plastic place which is cheaper than any home depot or lowes. Both stores wanted $300-400 for each sheet which is a little pricey when you figure I need 1.5 sheets to make the windows.


I have a new hatred of locking gaskets for windows. I was starting to question using the gaskets versus bolting the windows onto the sheet metal since the large window was difficult due to shape. Might be easier easier to build this thing in a tub of soapy water or sex lube. The lower window was completed first to learn the basic technique before tackling the most difficult window. The rest should suck less. Tommorrow I will try to take more pictures.
Rear Window done.jpg



A few windows may need polishing with sandpaper to remove a few minor scratches that were probably caused by the drive or loading but hard to know.

Does anyone have experience in tint for Lexan? From basic research, lexan has issues with outgassing with car window tint. A few companies sell a spray paint to tint the plastic.
 
Still hating the windows but now I only have 3 left to do. I should have inspected the plastic sheets more since some areas have decent scratches.

The lexan purchased has a additional UV layer on both sides. I guess some only have it one side
Lexan glass used.jpg


Traced window to cutout
Window traced.jpg


Excellent straight edge for circular saw
Straight edge.jpg


Rips through with no problems
Saw blade.jpg


Test fit with spacers around edge
Quick test.jpg


****ing thing eats the corner rounds for lunch. 3HP with 40 grit sandpaper.
Board eater.jpg


Not to bad of a fit. Locking gasket still blows ass to install.
Fit test.jpg


Been using the circled tools to get the window into the locking gasket.
1740023898348.png


This thing rocks for the one piece locking seal. **** according to the pictures I should be using this to align window into seal also. Tomorrow I will try this.
1740023999608.png
 
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