2000 Ford F-550 Build

arse_sidewards that's what Jantz did with his.

Good, that means I didn't overlook something stupid that would prevent it from working.

Doesn't look like Jantz's spacers are threaded, just slip with the shims presumably in the middle which I guess is better. Just pull some shims and toss them in the glove box when **** starts getting sloppy .

Ahhh, yes, sorry they aren’t threaded. What intrigues me the most is the gain in spindle strength. I have seen too many bent spindles in the rear of rigs

06h3 said:

Ahhh, yes, sorry they aren’t threaded. What intrigues me the most is the gain in spindle strength. I have seen too many bent spindles in the rear of rigs

Click to expand...

How many of those bent spindles involved a) a GM 14-bolt b) wheel spacers c) dumb offset wheels.

arse_sidewards said:

How many of those bent spindles involved a) a GM 14-bolt b) wheel spacers c) dumb offset wheels.

Click to expand...

Literally all of them! lol




Just got my aero exhaust I was going to go with walker like it was mentioned but the 4in wasn’t much cheaper then aeroturbine 4040XL. The 3.5in is but the 4in wasn’t.

My reasoning was the resonator may fit after tne downpipe before the trans crossmember, then the muffler would fit behind the trans crossmember and keep it all under the cab.

The walker may not fit under the cab. I read under the cab will do more for sound but idk if that person actually knows anything because I called aero exhaust today and they said it doesn’t matter much where it’s placed So my reasoning for the smaller body muffler to fit under the cab is null and void….

Anyways, it’s shiny and hopefully it shuts this loud exhaust down

arse_sidewards said:

Doesn't look like Jantz's spacers are threaded, just slip with the shims presumably in the middle which I guess is better. Just pull some shims and toss them in the glove box when **** starts getting sloppy .

Click to expand...

That makes more sense, and explains the video. The spacer distance would change with every set of bearings, so each time you rebuilt you'd have to make another spacer were it not for the shims.

I really like how the spacer is split and the shims are contained in the middle, super slick.

I am successfully home from my 1800 mile road trip. The new VGT Turbo is AMAZING. It allows me to hold overdrive so much longer not because I lacked power but because I lacked EGT control. I could honestly almost throw my EGT gauge out the window and it would be fine. At 2k rpm I would literally burn the motor to the ground up a hill, so I would downshift to keep rpms up and now I can cruise at 2k rpm up hills at 1000 EGT near 30 lbs of boost. I could lay into it more but didnt as I am playing it safe from a valvetrain perspective.

For about 1500 miles of that trip I was around 20k gross. The other 300 miles I was just under 27k gross.



Since I am neurotic I didn't even push the VGT harder. If I saw 38 lbs of backpressure steady (Id let it hit 40-45 for a quick spike) I wouldn't push it further. I am really ready to get my pushrods and valve springs in now to push it harder.

I even got to use 4wd to its full capability. When I was looking for camp, I kept going further and further out and staying on main dirt roads, but I pulled a corner a tad tight into some soft sand and SUNK immediately, it doesn't take much when you're at 27k lbs and 110 psi in the tires. I was able to disconnect the trailer, then hammer it back and forth on the throttle and inched my way out by going back and forth about 40 times, just enough to get the Hummer off the back, then the truck came out under its own power.




I also was at 399,997 so I drove around the block a few times.



The exhaust made the drive much more enjoyable and I used the cruise on flat roads and downhills. Overall it went well!

Awesome this trip worked out so well!

it at driving around the desert for 3 miles so you could hit 400k (knowing full well I would have wanted to do the exact same thing)!

06h3 said:

I am successfully home from my 1800 mile road trip. The new VGT Turbo is AMAZING. It allows me to hold overdrive so much longer not because I lacked power but because I lacked EGT control. I could honestly almost throw my EGT gauge out the window and it would be fine. At 2k rpm I would literally burn the motor to the ground up a hill, so I would downshift to keep rpms up and now I can cruise at 2k rpm up hills at 1000 EGT near 30 lbs of boost. I could lay into it more but didnt as I am playing it safe from a valvetrain perspective.

For about 1500 miles of that trip I was around 20k gross. The other 300 miles I was just under 27k gross.


Since I am neurotic I didn't even push the VGT harder. If I saw 38 lbs of backpressure steady (Id let it hit 40-45 for a quick spike) I wouldn't push it further. I am really ready to get my pushrods and valve springs in now to push it harder.

Click to expand...

That's good to hear. Now you just need a 6 speed auto and you'll basically have a new truck.

06h3 said:

I even got to use 4wd to its full capability. When I was looking for camp, I kept going further and further out and staying on main dirt roads, but I pulled a corner a tad tight into some soft sand and SUNK immediately, it doesn't take much when you're at 27k lbs and 110 psi in the tires. I was able to disconnect the trailer, then hammer it back and forth on the throttle and inched my way out by going back and forth about 40 times, just enough to get the Hummer off the back, then the truck came out under its own power.

Click to expand...

I'm surprised that pulled out on its own, these big trucks are usually just about helpless once they spin.

06h3 said:

I also was at 399,997 so I drove around the block a few times.


The exhaust made the drive much more enjoyable and I used the cruise on flat roads and downhills. Overall it went well!

Click to expand...

You still using the ghetto exhaust brake?

YotaAtieToo said:

That's good to hear. Now you just need a 6 speed auto and you'll basically have a new truck.



I'm surprised that pulled out on its own, these big trucks are usually just about helpless once they spin.



You still using the ghetto exhaust brake?

Click to expand...

Right! Just need an Allison 6 speed

I was shocked, I had the hummer in position to pull it out and before I did I tried one back up and one shot to pull it forward and it popped out.

Yes I still use it, it barely increased back pressure with the VGT so I plan to close up one of the 2 holes I have in it to make it do more. It works but I know it can work better

06h3 said:

Right! Just need an Allison 6 speed

I was shocked, I had the hummer in position to pull it out and before I did I tried one back up and one shot to pull it forward and it popped out.

Yes I still use it, it barely increased back pressure with the VGT so I plan to close up one of the 2 holes I have in it to make it do more. It works but I know it can work better

Click to expand...

I wonder if you could weld the holes completely, then use a waste gate to allow back pressure around the butterfly. Then you would have maximum braking power without worrying about too much back pressure at higher rpm.

That’s a great idea

Should be able to just get the right spring in there and not worry about the diaphragm.


Should be all you need except a bit of tubing. Might need a much stiffer spring though?

Ok, sometimes things take an unexpected turn in a build, and you just go with it. This was a quick spur of the moment thing.

So, the VGT has transformed the truck. Modern trucks kick ass due to modern technology and while this truck will never be modern certain modern additions can lessen the gap.

The next modern addition is a US Gear Dual Range Overdrive. 4 speeds suck, there is a reason 6-8-10 speeds are a thing in 2025. I have contemplated every scenario possible.

I have a spicer 7041 aux trans. I bought it years ago. I wasn't 100% sold on that setup. For certain trucks I think it is the answer. My truck is heavy and adding another 350 lbs to it seemed unnecessary for the downsides I would have. Guys can shift an aux trans with an auto but it is not as easy as a truck with a manual so I figure any gains I would have in rpm options I would lose in slow shifting. This would be a badass unit in a manual truck, especially if you drive around unloaded a lot, low rpm, great mpg. I never drive unloaded.

Gear vendors....I have talked to them numerous times. They have told me I will kill a gear vendors unit quickly and wouldn't even want to sell me one. Idk how they hold up to 3000 hp but I guess TQ and weight kills em.

Allison 1000 6 speed. It is a reliable proven option numerous 7.3 guys have done but the cost is astronomical. 15k from CA Conversions. I am not spending that much money on a trans conversion for my old ****box I use less than 6 times a year.

I had dreams that I would rock the 4R100 for a few more years and assume a ZF Powerline 8AT would work with time. The 8HP70 swap has taken the world by storm and I would imagine they use similar electronics. The have SAE bellhousings and I imagine it is a viable swap one day....and maybe one day that will happen. Honestly, I wanted to swap an 8HP70 in my H3 behind my LS a few years back but the 8HP wasn't really a big swap yet and now the aftermarket is picking up on it. I imagine this Powerline will be a go to in the future for numerous diesel enthusiasts.

Lastly, the US Gear Dual Range overdrive. It is a heavy duty gear vendors (to a degree, they don't function the same but execution is similar.) They have a GCWR of 35k lbs. They can be used forward, back, towing, unloaded, any speed, etc. unlike a GV. I have seen plenty of positive reviews of them but of course US Gear got bought out then the new owner discontinued the product. I thought it was a solid option but I never thought I would find one, the few times I have found them on marketplace they get snatched up immediately or if I find one it's not the right spline count a 2wd unit, etc.

Anyways, I found one on marketplace. It was listed for a couple hours, he is 4.5 hours away and I told him I can't pick it up immediately, but I am not a scammer, I gave him my # and asked him to call me. He did and he said he has a guy coming tonight to buy it for $200 under asking. We had a good conversation about projects and he realized I wasnt a flake, scammer or "is this still available" idiot. So I gave him $200 to hold it and am paying full price. Just need to pick it up next week.


It is 31 spline and for a 4x4 but it is for a manual. I believe the spline depth is longer on the manual, that is an easy fix.

Ratios go from
2.71
1.54
1:1
.71
to


Will it shift as quick as a 6R140, 6 speed allison, 8AT or 10R140? No. Does it have the deep 1st gear ratios the new trucks have? No, but it will lessen the spread and I hope for the less than $1000 I will have into it, it will work just fine.

How it works is I am on throttle, hit the button, wait 2 seconds (still on same throttle input during those 2 seconds) lessen throttle input (don't need to let off all the way) then reapply throttle input and it shifts.

Lastly, I am not worried about bearings, seals, the shift motor, there's a group of us gear overdrive enthusiasts that have all the part #'s for replacement parts, the only thing you can't get are gears but those don't fail from what I hear.

With that 4-OD ratio its time to swap in some of the stupid low gears, lowest factory ones were like 5.38 right? Help make up for not having a low 1st in trans.

I’ll probably leave it 350TacoZilla it has 4.88s and 33s which is pretty deep.

350TacoZilla said:

With that 4-OD ratio its time to swap in some of the stupid low gears, lowest factory ones were like 5.38 right? Help make up for not having a low 1st in trans.

Click to expand...

He's got 4.88s and it's screaming on the highway. The 0.80 will just make it like he's effectively running 3.90s.

06h3 said:

Ok, sometimes things take an unexpected turn in a build, and you just go with it. This was a quick spur of the moment thing.

So, the VGT has transformed the truck. Modern trucks kick ass due to modern technology and while this truck will never be modern certain modern additions can lessen the gap.

The next modern addition is a US Gear Dual Range Overdrive. 4 speeds suck, there is a reason 6-8-10 speeds are a thing in 2025. I have contemplated every scenario possible.

I have a spicer 7041 aux trans. I bought it years ago. I wasn't 100% sold on that setup. For certain trucks I think it is the answer. My truck is heavy and adding another 350 lbs to it seemed unnecessary for the downsides I would have. Guys can shift an aux trans with an auto but it is not as easy as a truck with a manual so I figure any gains I would have in rpm options I would lose in slow shifting. This would be a badass unit in a manual truck, especially if you drive around unloaded a lot, low rpm, great mpg. I never drive unloaded.

Gear vendors....I have talked to them numerous times. They have told me I will kill a gear vendors unit quickly and wouldn't even want to sell me one. Idk how they hold up to 3000 hp but I guess TQ and weight kills em.

Allison 1000 6 speed. It is a reliable proven option numerous 7.3 guys have done but the cost is astronomical. 15k from CA Conversions. I am not spending that much money on a trans conversion for my old ****box I use less than 6 times a year.

I had dreams that I would rock the 4R100 for a few more years and assume a ZF Powerline 8AT would work with time. The 8HP70 swap has taken the world by storm and I would imagine they use similar electronics. The have SAE bellhousings and I imagine it is a viable swap one day....and maybe one day that will happen. Honestly, I wanted to swap an 8HP70 in my H3 behind my LS a few years back but the 8HP wasn't really a big swap yet and now the aftermarket is picking up on it. I imagine this Powerline will be a go to in the future for numerous diesel enthusiasts.

Lastly, the US Gear Dual Range overdrive. It is a heavy duty gear vendors (to a degree, they don't function the same but execution is similar.) They have a GCWR of 35k lbs. They can be used forward, back, towing, unloaded, any speed, etc. unlike a GV. I have seen plenty of positive reviews of them but of course US Gear got bought out then the new owner discontinued the product. I thought it was a solid option but I never thought I would find one, the few times I have found them on marketplace they get snatched up immediately or if I find one it's not the right spline count a 2wd unit, etc.

Anyways, I found one on marketplace. It was listed for a couple hours, he is 4.5 hours away and I told him I can't pick it up immediately, but I am not a scammer, I gave him my # and asked him to call me. He did and he said he has a guy coming tonight to buy it for $200 under asking. We had a good conversation about projects and he realized I wasnt a flake, scammer or "is this still available" idiot. So I gave him $200 to hold it and am paying full price. Just need to pick it up next week.

https://www.dieselwarden.net/temp/usgear/US%20Gears%20overdrive%20manual.pdf

It is 31 spline and for a 4x4 but it is for a manual. I believe the spline depth is longer on the manual, that is an easy fix.

Ratios go from
2.71
1.54
1:1
.71
to

Will it shift as quick as a 6R140, 6 speed allison, 8AT or 10R140? No. Does it have the deep 1st gear ratios the new trucks have? No, but it will lessen the spread and I hope for the less than $1000 I will have into it, it will work just fine.

How it works is I am on throttle, hit the button, wait 2 seconds (still on same throttle input during those 2 seconds) lessen throttle input (don't need to let off all the way) then reapply throttle input and it shifts.

Lastly, I am not worried about bearings, seals, the shift motor, there's a group of us gear overdrive enthusiasts that have all the part #'s for replacement parts, the only thing you can't get are gears but those don't fail from what I hear.

Click to expand...

Wow, that ratio splits the current ratios perfectly.

That shifting method is exactly the same as a 2 speed rear end or a splitter on a 13 or 18 speed. It's pretty easy to get used to up shifting, but down shifting is a little more tricky. Which may not be a huge deal for you.

I'd love to have the brownie box, but I wish it was the smaller one. Would be awesome in my Ford.

Yeah I think the 5831 would be perfect for you YotaAtieToo the spicer 7041 is a big bitch.

I can envision this helping tremendously going up I50 from the rubicon to Tahoe. Elevation with good steady grades. Starting from a stop at ice house and accelerating I assume it should be easy shifting.

If I’m doing 65-70 and going up I-80 and slowing down on the grade I wonder how hard it will be to shift from 4th direct to 3rd over, time will tell. Hopefully not hard enough to cause more of a speed decrease

Sorry I kept thinking you had swapped to axles with 4.30 from the stock 4.88

YotaAtieToo in his chart he shows his new 4th-OD is .568 which would be like running 2.77 gears. Now again I was thinking he currently had 4.30 for some reason which would be like 2.44, the 5.38s would be like 3.06.
In my head for taking off heavy 5.38 vs 4.30 would be pretty decent bump, but not a big difference to his 4.88.

350TacoZilla said:

Sorry I kept thinking you had swapped to axles with 4.30 from the stock 4.88

YotaAtieToo in his chart he shows his new 4th-OD is .568 which would be like running 2.77 gears. Now again I was thinking he currently had 4.30 for some reason which would be like 2.44, the 5.38s would be like 3.06.
In my head for taking off heavy 5.38 vs 4.30 would be pretty decent bump, but not a big difference to his 4.88.

Click to expand...

I mean just the 080 x 4.88 is 3.90s. Which is still lower than the 3.73s that came in the 250/350s with the same engine and trans.

Well, I am sure glad this is gear splitter was sitting on the floor of my garage and the truck wasn't torn apart yet.



I received a frantic call from a random number that my Brother in law was near the Idaho/Oregon border off the 95 and that he was in a bad crash. Rolled 3 times, landed back on all 4, and was ok.

She had to drive 15 min just to get service. I had no other info, she said he had a ton of stuff, ammo, guns, tools all over the place. Not knowing how much crap there was I hauled ass and played it safe and grabbed the trailer.





The lucky bastard just missed this small body of water. He got lucky.



We took him to the doctor. No broken bones, no internal bleeding, no concussion. Truly amazing, 65 mph and 3 rolls. He said he didn't even know he rolled 3 times; the lady told me that on the phone and she saw it live. She was convinced she would be pulling a dead body out of the jeep according to what she saw.

Anyways, truck did good but I did realize one thing I must do ASAP. Luckily his winch worked. If it didn't, we may have been in trouble. I have a hitch mounted winch that can be used on the front of the truck and it has a quick disconnect plug for the wiring. I have wiring that runs to the bed of the truck to winch up a disabled rig on the bed. I have a hitch mount on the trailer. Can I just run a standard extension like this


My concern is I would have like 35 feet of wiring from the front of the truck to the winch. I know it will work if I get super expensive 3/0 wiring, a winch at full load is like 400 amps but I imagine it won't hit that pulling dead **** up a trailer. Anyways, will I burn the truck down if I do that?

06h3 said:

My concern is I would have like 35 feet of wiring from the front of the truck to the winch. I know it will work if I get super expensive 3/0 wiring, a winch at full load is like 400 amps but I imagine it won't hit that pulling dead **** up a trailer. Anyways, will I burn the truck down if I do that?

Click to expand...

I use a 3500# atv winch this way. One length of #2/0 for positive, and one frame rail used for the negative.

Damn!

Glad no injuries!

06h3 said:

Well, I am sure glad this is gear splitter was sitting on the floor of my garage and the truck wasn't torn apart yet.

I received a frantic call from a random number that my Brother in law was near the Idaho/Oregon border off the 95 and that he was in a bad crash. Rolled 3 times, landed back on all 4, and was ok.

She had to drive 15 min just to get service. I had no other info, she said he had a ton of stuff, ammo, guns, tools all over the place. Not knowing how much crap there was I hauled ass and played it safe and grabbed the trailer.

The lucky bastard just missed this small body of water. He got lucky.

We took him to the doctor. No broken bones, no internal bleeding, no concussion. Truly amazing, 65 mph and 3 rolls. He said he didn't even know he rolled 3 times; the lady told me that on the phone and she saw it live. She was convinced she would be pulling a dead body out of the jeep according to what she saw.

Anyways, truck did good but I did realize one thing I must do ASAP. Luckily his winch worked. If it didn't, we may have been in trouble. I have a hitch mounted winch that can be used on the front of the truck and it has a quick disconnect plug for the wiring. I have wiring that runs to the bed of the truck to winch up a disabled rig on the bed. I have a hitch mount on the trailer. Can I just run a standard extension like this

Winch Power Cable | Quick Disconnect | 24 Ft

Effortlessly power your winch with quick-snap disconnect cables featuring durable 2 gauge copper wiring for maximum power and reliability.

www.roughcountry.com

My concern is I would have like 35 feet of wiring from the front of the truck to the winch. I know it will work if I get super expensive 3/0 wiring, a winch at full load is like 400 amps but I imagine it won't hit that pulling dead **** up a trailer. Anyways, will I burn the truck down if I do that?

Click to expand...

IMO I would run it, in these situations you have time on your side. The cable is gonna be cold, even if you winch it from a dead stop to fully loaded that length of time is not enough to put enough heat in to the cables to be dangerous IMO.

I would protect the cable with an appropriate sized breaker, so you can rapidly cut the power and to allow a failsafe if cable failure happens.

CDA 455 II said:

Damn!

Glad no injuries!

Click to expand...

Thanks, you probably know the 95 being in the area. While it is a remote road without a ton of travel it seems crashes are common out there.

Glad that he is ok.

I think that 3/0 30 foot long HD jumper cables would be more useful. And no dust to clean out of connectors. Make sure you get a pair that requires a real handshake hand to open them. Like a Blue Collar handshake.

06h3 said:

Thanks, you probably know the 95 being in the area. While it is a remote road without a ton of travel it seems crashes are common out there.

Click to expand...

Yeah; I think people forget there are turns out there on that road!

06h3 said:

Well, I am sure glad this is gear splitter was sitting on the floor of my garage and the truck wasn't torn apart yet.

I received a frantic call from a random number that my Brother in law was near the Idaho/Oregon border off the 95 and that he was in a bad crash. Rolled 3 times, landed back on all 4, and was ok.

She had to drive 15 min just to get service. I had no other info, she said he had a ton of stuff, ammo, guns, tools all over the place. Not knowing how much crap there was I hauled ass and played it safe and grabbed the trailer.

The lucky bastard just missed this small body of water. He got lucky.

We took him to the doctor. No broken bones, no internal bleeding, no concussion. Truly amazing, 65 mph and 3 rolls. He said he didn't even know he rolled 3 times; the lady told me that on the phone and she saw it live. She was convinced she would be pulling a dead body out of the jeep according to what she saw.

Anyways, truck did good but I did realize one thing I must do ASAP. Luckily his winch worked. If it didn't, we may have been in trouble. I have a hitch mounted winch that can be used on the front of the truck and it has a quick disconnect plug for the wiring. I have wiring that runs to the bed of the truck to winch up a disabled rig on the bed. I have a hitch mount on the trailer. Can I just run a standard extension like this

Winch Power Cable | Quick Disconnect | 24 Ft

Effortlessly power your winch with quick-snap disconnect cables featuring durable 2 gauge copper wiring for maximum power and reliability.

www.roughcountry.com

My concern is I would have like 35 feet of wiring from the front of the truck to the winch. I know it will work if I get super expensive 3/0 wiring, a winch at full load is like 400 amps but I imagine it won't hit that pulling dead **** up a trailer. Anyways, will I burn the truck down if I do that?

Click to expand...

Can that OD box be mounted between the transmission and tcase?

Yes it can back woods