Dust Buggy

While topping off the fuel tank to near max, I noticed fuel around the fuel pump. Disassembled to find the oring had moved off of center and out of round and was cut and not sealing. Not sure what the stock tank looks like but the oring doesn’t work good with flat filler plates and CA fuel. Unsure if the oring has swelled up and expanded.
I have some Viton gasket material on the way to make a flat gasket of the correct size. The flat gasket should prevent the oring from rolling out due to the coning of the plates when they sandwich. Similar to the coning on beadlock rings.

IMG_6831.jpeg


IMG_6832.jpeg


IMG_6833.jpeg
 
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Cut out a donut 5” ID x 6” OD x 1/8” Viton.
Compression of the plates is a lot better with the thinner flat seal compared to the thicker oring. The gasket was a snug on the ID so that’s why it looks coned. I didn’t want it to be off center. It flattened out no problem.

IMG_6835.jpeg

IMG_6836.jpeg
 
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It looks like you use a sealer on the bolts going into the cell. Can you share what that sealant was?

Top of my cell is inside the Jeep. I'm up for anything that can reduce the smell of fuel when the top is on.
 
gt1guy said:
It looks like you use a sealer on the bolts going into the cell. Can you share what that sealant was?

Top of my cell is inside the Jeep. I'm up for anything that can reduce the smell of fuel when the top is on.
Click to expand...

I used permatex 80016 per moto built instructions. Seals perfectly, no leaks or smells.
 
gt1guy said:
It looks like you use a sealer on the bolts going into the cell. Can you share what that sealant was?

Top of my cell is inside the Jeep. I'm up for anything that can reduce the smell of fuel when the top is on.
Click to expand...

RectorSeal Tru Blu
It’s a thread sealant not a gasket maker.
It has a strong hold once dry like loctite blue.
 
The cooling fans used to run when the key was on. Problem was when the ignition was on the fans would run when the engine was off, due to the autometer sensors and the fan controller the fans would ramp up to near full speed and max noise and waste power.
I hooked the fuel pump relay into the fan controller so the fans only run when the engine is running. Problem solved.
Added a 12V cigarette outlet for powering a phone charger. Planning on running an old iPhone 13 Pro Max with GPS and the X free app for Irate members on a ram mount next to the steering wheel.
 
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HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The cooling fans used to run when the key was on. Problem was when the ignition was on the fans would run when the engine was off,
Click to expand...
That I get
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
due to the autometer sensors and the fan controller the fans would ramp up to near full speed and max noise and waste power.
Click to expand...
That I don't get.
Could you explain how the autometer sensors are related to the fan controller and making them ramp up?
 
Bebop said:
That I get

That I don't get.
Could you explain how the autometer sensors are related to the fan controller and making them ramp up?
Click to expand...
The fan pulse modules read the same temp sensors as the autometer gauges. The sensor wire is branched to the gauge and FPM both.
Autometer does not send out a constant voltage to the sensors so the sensors will have a different reply voltage depending on if the alternators are running at peak voltage vs lower battery only voltage. Autometer corrects the sensor reading in the gauge after not before.
The FPM sees a different voltage or different temp when the alternators are off resulting in the fans ramping up thinking the temps have risen.
I tried a constant voltage regulator to power the guages and sensors at a lower voltage so they would not increase when the alternators powered up, but it was not that great and another part to wire in and fail so it is being removed.
 
Gear and Cargo

Trying to figure out what to have on the buggy vs on the trailer.
There is a packout tool box between the front seats for typical junk, phones, goggles, clothes, radios, lights, snacks, med kit.
Might be able to sandwich the socket set packout under the rear bench. Also gets the weight down lower.
On the back deck is 2 packout attachment plates. There is also speed track with anchor points to strap down fuel containers in an open top packout crate. Might be able to fit two 5 Gal jugs or three 2 Gal Rotopax.
The extra fuel would only be used for a multi day trip and if so I would most likely put camping gear on the roof.

BOX -1 REAR DECK
RTV
Epoxy
Sledge
Gloves
Razor knife
Multi-tool
1/2" breaker bar with 3/8" adapter
Knipex smooth jaw pliers 7/8" - 3"
Knipex pipe pliers up to 2"
Needle nose pliers
Crap On Electrical stripper, crimper
Stubby gear wrench 3/8" - 3/4" & 10MM - 19MM
Zip ties 1/8" and 1/4"
Tesa engine tape, stupid strong, high temp
Allen keys metric and standard
Spanner wrench
Shock collar wrench
1/4" hex screwdriver with bit assortment
Tire glue sidewall patch kit, plug kit, valve stem repair kit
Spare fasteners
Brake fitting caps and plugs


BOX-2 REAR DECK
Soft shackle
Hard shackle
Tree saver 3’
Tow strap 20'
Rope guard
Winch controller, wired, back up to wireless that is already installed
2QTY 1" ratchet strap
Air hose, chuck, gauge, blow nozzle
Need a new OBD tool

BOX-3 CAB
Gloves
Goggles
Ski mask
Towels
Phone
Flashlight
Headlight
Light batteries
Med Kit
Binoculars
Phone charger and cord

BOX-4 REAR DECK
Quart 10-30
Quart steering fluid
Quart trans fluid
Quart 80W-90
1Gal in water bottles

BOX-5 COOLER
Packout attach

STRAP / BOLTED ON
Hitch tow point
GPS
6 Gallon of fuel RotoPax 2Gal x 3QTY, only for long trips
Socket set 1/4" & 3/8" drive up to 1" & 19MM, with ratchet, swivels, extensions
HiLift jack 48"
Shovel

Trailer:
Spare tire
Fuel 5.5 GAL X 9 QTY
8 QTY 2" ratchet strap
Battery charger
 
Last edited:
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The fan pulse modules read the same temp sensors as the autometer gauges. The sensor wire is branched to the gauge and FPM both.
Autometer does not send out a constant voltage to the sensors so the sensors will have a different reply voltage depending on if the alternators are running at peak voltage vs lower battery only voltage. Autometer corrects the sensor reading in the gauge after not before.
The FPM sees a different voltage or different temp when the alternators are off resulting in the fans ramping up thinking the temps have risen.
I tried a constant voltage regulator to power the guages and sensors at a lower voltage so they would not increase when the alternators powered up, but it was not that great and another part to wire in and fail so it is being removed.
Click to expand...
This is sooooo complicated.
You should drive the PWM fans with the ECU like the OEM intended and be done.
 
Badass use of space, I carry a lot of **** and always wondered how I would carry stuff I I had a buggy. I’ll definitely be referencing this buggy for storage.

What socket set is that? Looks really flat in the case.
 
06h3 said:
Badass use of space, I carry a lot of **** and always wondered how I would carry stuff I I had a buggy. I’ll definitely be referencing this buggy for storage.

What socket set is that? Looks really flat in the case.
Click to expand...

www.milwaukeetool.com

(106PC) Ratchet & Socket Set + PACKOUT™ | Milwaukee Tool

This MILWAUKEE® Combo Kit includes a 106PC Drive Ratchet & Socket Set (SAE & Metric) & a PACKOUT™ Low-Profile Organizer.
www.milwaukeetool.com www.milwaukeetool.com
 
Reworked the lower limit strap tab.
The old tab was wider and when the tire hit the link at full lock in reverse and rotated it, the strap would rub the tire.
Also change out the springs for a heavier rate and a longer bottom coil.
Old was 14” 200# over 16” 250#
New is 10” 300# over 20” 300#
The dual rate kicks in at 1.5” of travel so the bottom coil is doing most of the work. The 20” coil has a lot more meat and isn’t working as hard as a shorter thinner wire coil.
Rear is also going up in rate.
Hope is the higher rate will help on slow speed bottoming out.
Also tightened up the Ballistic Fab rod ends and regreased them. Hopefully they are honed and settled in and don’t need more tightening. Time will tell.

IMG_7099.jpeg
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Gear and Cargo

Trying to figure out what to have on the buggy vs on the trailer.
There is a packout tool box between the front seats for typical junk, phones, goggles, clothes, radios, lights, snacks, med kit.
Might be able to sandwich the socket set packout under the rear bench. Also gets the weight down lower.
On the back deck is 2 packout attachment plates. There is also speed track with anchor points to strap down fuel containers in an open top packout crate. Might be able to fit two 5 Gal jugs or three 2 Gal Rotopax.
The extra fuel would only be used for a multi day trip and if so I would most likely put camping gear on the roof.

BOX -1 REAR DECK
RTV
Epoxy
Sledge
Gloves
Razor knife
Multi-tool
1/2" breaker bar with 3/8" adapter
Knipex smooth jaw pliers 7/8" - 3"
Knipex pipe pliers up to 2"
Needle nose pliers
Crap On Electrical stripper, crimper
Stubby gear wrench 3/8" - 3/4" & 10MM - 19MM
Zip ties 1/8" and 1/4"
Tesa engine tape, stupid strong, high temp
Allen keys metric and standard
Spanner wrench
Shock collar wrench
1/4" hex screwdriver with bit assortment
Tire glue sidewall patch kit, plug kit, valve stem repair kit
Spare fasteners
Brake fitting caps and plugs


BOX-2 REAR DECK
Soft shackle
Hard shackle
Tree saver 3’
Tow strap 20'
Rope guard
Winch controller, wired, back up to wireless that is already installed
2QTY 1" ratchet strap
Air hose, chuck, gauge, blow nozzle
Need a new OBD tool

BOX-3 CAB
Gloves
Goggles
Ski mask
Towels
Phone
Flashlight
Headlight
Light batteries
Med Kit
Binoculars
Phone charger and cord

BOX-4 REAR DECK
Quart 10-30
Quart steering fluid
Quart trans fluid
Quart 80W-90
1Gal in water bottles

BOX-5 COOLER
Packout attach

STRAP / BOLTED ON
Hitch tow point
GPS
6 Gallon of fuel RotoPax 2Gal x 3QTY, only for long trips
Socket set 1/4" & 3/8" drive up to 1" & 19MM, with ratchet, swivels, extensions
HiLift jack 48"
Shovel

Trailer:
Spare tire
Fuel 5.5 GAL X 9 QTY
8 QTY 2" ratchet strap
Battery charger
Click to expand...
While attempting to loosen and rotate the lower link jam nuts so the limit strap tab would clear the tire, I quickly found out that the 3" Knipex with roughly 14" handle wasn't even close to the task. I was hanging on a 24" Crescent during install so they are nice and tight. Also found that the steering rod ends 1-1/8" were just as tight and needed actual wrenches so adding some of those to the box.

Also noticed one of the lug nuts backing out, none of them were tight, I probably used the M12 3/8" impact which wasn't enough. I had a 1/2" breaker bar with 1/2" to 3/8" Snap On adapter and that Snapped Off when tightening so I need to add some 1/2" drive sockets for the bigger stuff.

I ordered a 18" Crescent automotive wrench to see how they compare to the regular USA 18" Crescent that would do the job with a breaker bar tube. I'll test them both out and see who stays in the shop and who goes along for the ride. The automotive style wrench also looks like a better hammer than the traditional style so that's a plus.

UPDATE: The 18" Crescent automotive wrench is junk. Way too much spring in the metal. Jaws opened up on a 5/8" bolt that wasn't even tight. Going to get another USA made 18" Crescent.
 
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Gumbybronco said:
I like the wrench you ordered.
I ordered a set of the RuffStuff ones with the idea that they are also compact enough for trail duty

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Jam Nut Wrench - Professional Rod End Tool for 1 1/4" Parts | RuffStuff Specialties

Professional jam nut wrench designed for 1 1/4" rod end parts. Essential tool for suspension builds and fabrication projects. Durable construction.
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Click to expand...
I bought both sets of jam nut wrenches from MotoBilt for the same purpose/trail bag.

motobilt.com

Search: 4 results found for "jam nut"

Discover Motobilt's premium range of Jeep, Rock Crawler, and DIY Builder parts. Proudly American-made, our products include laser-cut brackets, tabs, heavy-duty bumpers, armor, and more. Elevate your off-road experience with Motobilt's precision-crafted parts.
motobilt.com motobilt.com

As with most things though, since I have them, I've never needed them.
 
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