Kubota L2502 DIY Cab

Duc

Well-known member
Joined
May 30, 2020
Messages
713
Loc
ABQ NM
Decide to build a cab for the tractor after the dealership quoted $7,900 for a cab. I get some nasty wind thru the canyon that makes running the tractor ****ty in the winter and tons of gnats in the summer.

Might have been this cab

Premium Cab for Kubota L2502 | L3302 | 3902

Premium Cab for Kubota L2502 | L3302 | 3902. Compatible with LA 526 loader. Compatible with BH 77 backhoe.
curtisindustries.net

Design considerations
1. Can be removed and reinstalled alone
2. Can access loader controllers by a window
3. Removable door
4. Least amount of modification to tractor including the use of canopy

Start of the cab. 1in 11ga sq tubing for the frame structure. Some of the tubing needs to be trimmed at the end.
Tube work.jpg


Lacking a tube roller I had to get creative to get the roll. First one I used a sawzall to make the slits
No tube roller 1.jpg


Changed the travel on the horizontal saw to put the slits in on the second one.
No tube roller 2.jpg


Duplicating the left panel for the right.
Panel duplication.jpg


Not looking to bad so far
Left and right panels.jpg


Windshield construction
Windshield.jpg


in place
Windshield 2.jpg


Started to added some ease of assembly features to different sections. Starting with a angle bracket to hold windshield into place. Will be adding some bolt plates also so I can tilt into place before bolting in.
Windshield ledge.jpg


Rear window mount plate that will be trimmed later on.
Rear window mount.jpg


Left panel support before bolting into place
Left panel hanger.jpg
 
Made a little more progress

I've been trying to avoid modifying the tractor for the cab but needed to drill and tap a 3/8-16 hole in the front loader mount. The cab should be stiff enough when everything is bolted together but I can also added bracket to the top halo. This may change when I cut the cross bar to allow for a door.
Panel front mount.jpg


Started working door step area. Still need some more trimming and cleaning up
Driver panel front.jpg


Door support bar welded to side panel. Fireball shims to the rescue for setting location. Also picked up a welding blanket to avoid burning anything
Door bar.jpg


Barrel hinges for the door and windows to allow for removal when needed. I have another 2 sets not shown.
barrel hinges.jpg




All the welds and joints will be cleaned up near the end of fit up.
 
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Knock out a rough door but need to add some bracing to avoid door sag. The door will stiffen up once the skin is added on the outside for the windows.

Set a 3/8 gap between the frame and the door curve. Hopefully it was enough
Door construction.jpg


Hard to tell in the picture but I originally point one pin up and one down since I forgot to mark them.
Door hinges.jpg


Test fit. Has some sag but that can be fixed later on.
Door.jpg


I should have the window on the right side rough out on Thursday or Friday.
 
Looking good! When you get this one finished up, I'll take one for my Kubota L3010 while you are at it

Whats the plan for heat/ac inside the cab?

What's the plan for windows material wise?
 
ridered3 said:
Looking good! When you get this one finished up, I'll take one for my Kubota L3010 while you are at it

Whats the plan for heat/ac inside the cab?

What's the plan for windows material wise?
Click to expand...

I would be half tempted to sell this one but I know it wouldn't be perfect plus then I would have to put off another project to build another

I have some thoughts for cooling in the summer time but nothing set in stone.

Ac
1. Dual fan setup in canopy from a car radiator to blow down on me
2. Add a water mister setup to the fan configuration. I live in a hot dry place that swamp coolers work ok in. A 5-10 gallon water tank on the back would probably last for a few hours.

Heat
Haven't thought to far ahead on this. We usually get to 20 to 30 degrees at the lowest before wind chill. For now a heat jacket should work fine.

Windows
I keep going back and forth between plastic or glass. Might do plastic for now since glass will add a decent weight to each panel.
 
Duc said:
I would be half tempted to sell this one but I know it wouldn't be perfect plus then I would have to put off another project to build another

I have some thoughts for cooling in the summer time but nothing set in stone.

Ac
1. Dual fan setup in canopy from a car radiator to blow down on me
2. Add a water mister setup to the fan configuration. I live in a hot dry place that swamp coolers work ok in. A 5-10 gallon water tank on the back would probably last for a few hours.

Heat
Haven't thought to far ahead on this. We usually get to 20 to 30 degrees at the lowest before wind chill. For now a heat jacket should work fine.

Windows
I keep going back and forth between plastic or glass. Might do plastic for now since glass will add a decent weight to each panel.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the detailed response.

Car radiator fan in the canopy is on my "To Do" list for my tractor as well. Should help with forced air blowing down for cooling off some as well as debris/bug control too.
 
ridered3 said:
Thanks for the detailed response.

Car radiator fan in the canopy is on my "To Do" list for my tractor as well. Should help with forced air blowing down for cooling off some as well as debris/bug control too.
Click to expand...
Hopefully the fan will work well to keep the annoying gnats off me and give some relieve from the heat.

I finally bite the bullet on the purchase of a plasma cutter again. I used to have a powermax 65 for my old cnc plasma cutting table but that was sold with the table. I decided on a everlast 82i plasma cutter since it was 1/3 the cost of a pm65 but we will see if they improved over the years. I dont see it being used a ton but once in awhile to trim long pieces down for the saw or stuff that needs to be free hand. The plasma would also help with making the arc cuts around the wheel wells for the sheet metal and general stuff around the shop.
 
Love the ambition to build your own cab.

What brand is your spray can? Any issues with acetone? Appears to say carb clean. My SureShot absolutely **** itself after the second refill of acetone. It’s a mess and leaks everywhere imaginable
 
WiscoF100 said:
Love the ambition to build your own cab.

What brand is your spray can? Any issues with acetone? Appears to say carb clean. My SureShot absolutely **** itself after the second refill of acetone. It’s a mess and leaks everywhere imaginable
Click to expand...

Vaper is the brand for mine. I have one for carb cleaner, acetone and denatured alcohol, and water. Much better than the pump sprayer.


PAToyota said:
I've been running acetone through my SureShot for years without any issue. What failed on yours?

About the only things they say not to use is anything water based in the steel sprayers, not for paint, and not anything ammonia based: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0674/9437/9735/files/Model_A_Instructions.pdf?v=1706748428
Click to expand...
I use water in one for cleaning off the coolant residual on the cnc mill. I don't care if it goes bad in a few years since they are cheap.
 
Duc said:
Vaper is the brand for mine. I have one for carb cleaner, acetone and denatured alcohol, and water. Much better than the pump sprayer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0069TUXHQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Click to expand...

Looks like what HF copied for theirs. Makes me wonder if those tips and parts will work on the HF one.

www.harborfreight.com

32 oz. Refillable Pressurized Sprayer

Amazing deals on this 32Oz Refillable Pressurized Sprayer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

If you get it when there's a 15 or 20% coupon, you can get them for around $30.
 
bgaidan said:
Looks like what HF copied for theirs. Makes me wonder if those tips and parts will work on the HF one.

www.harborfreight.com

32 oz. Refillable Pressurized Sprayer

Amazing deals on this 32Oz Refillable Pressurized Sprayer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

If you get it when there's a 15 or 20% coupon, you can get them for around $30.
Click to expand...
I have one of these that I use for acetone for welding prep.
Simple and reliable.
 
Let’s get keep the tractor tech to a minimum in this thread 🤣

Leaks profusely from trigger and bottom. Acetone doesn’t kill the stickers but wrecked the black coating. It holds pressure. I can pretty much use it until empty. I’ve meant to email sureshot about this but keep procrastinating
IMG_0942.jpeg
IMG_0943.jpeg
IMG_0944.jpeg
 
WiscoF100 said:
Let’s get keep the tractor tech to a minimum in this thread 🤣

Leaks profusely from trigger and bottom. Acetone doesn’t kill the stickers but wrecked the black coating. It holds pressure. I can pretty much use it until empty. I’ve meant to email sureshot about this but keep procrastinating
IMG_0942.jpeg
IMG_0943.jpeg
IMG_0944.jpeg
Click to expand...

There are rebuild kits for the valves on amazon for like $12.



I switch between acetone an mineral spirits in my HF one. Been meaning to dig in to a DIY brake clean formula. I know it's part acetone, but there's something else in that **** that makes it work better and/or cause cancer in California.
 
WiscoF100 said:
Let’s get keep the tractor tech to a minimum in this thread 🤣

Leaks profusely from trigger and bottom. Acetone doesn’t kill the stickers but wrecked the black coating. It holds pressure. I can pretty much use it until empty. I’ve meant to email sureshot about this but keep procrastinating
Click to expand...

We dont need any tech to be entertained. Just more divorces

I called everlast today to see I still managed to get the Christmas special on the plasma and to make sure the order went thru. The units are still shipping with the 25ft torch, machine cover and 30 pc consumable kit but Im also guessing this a standard parchage but they change the name of the special to make you feel like you got a better deal. Just happy the unit was arrive without the worthless 14ft torch like it list on website. Also the lady stated they were out of stock for the next 10 days but I just got a shipping label for 77lbs so who knows.


Welded and flapped disc the curved sections for the panel and door frame. As expect the door warped from the welding but I can bring it back with the oxy torch heat-shrink method or weld on the backside. I could have avoided this problem if I had a roll bender verus cut slits in the tubing.
Weld warp.jpg
 
Well I thought the plasma was going to arrive sometime next week but Im guessing the generate a shipping tag right away. So no plasma for me for a week or two. ****


This picture shows more of the issue with the shrinkage.
Weld shrinkage.jpg


Fixed some with a oxy torch but used the welder in the end to pull it mostly back to stock.
Weld shrinkage 3.jpg


Much better. This could have been avoided if the ****ing auction with the roll bender didnt get extend twice now due to "weather" ie nobody was bidding.
Weld shrinkage 2.jpg



Rough cut out using cut off wheel. Miss having a plasma
Door profile.jpg


Test fit on frame
Door profile test fit.jpg


The door was a little heavy for me to install alone so I trimmed some more weight down. Window will be enlarged on top and added to the bottom once plasma is in.
Weight reduction.jpg


Test fit on tractor. Mini tractor killdozer?
Door install 2.jpg


I need to decide how I will fix this interference problem with the curve. I may just move the curve on the door to give it some more clearance or adjust hinges.
Door installed.jpg
 
Not having a roll bender is really adding alot of work to this project.

The gap was pissing me off from the lower bars to the wheel well. Normally it was 1/4 but now its over 1/2in or more. I cut off the radius bar to fix it. Both sides were matched till I fully welded up the driver side.
Original roll versus new.jpg


Fixed some by bending with the table clamps. Added plates under the ends to avoid gouging the table.
Rebend.jpg


Used the clamps and a combination of heat shrink to fix the radius. I removed the passenger side example to make matching a little easier. Additional work was done on the part after picture.
Rebend close.jpg


Adjusted the vertical and horizontal bar orientation. gap looked wrong before.
Fixing lower bar angle.jpg



The door area is taking a long time to adjust but the time will well spent if I dont want issues later on. Remaining panels will be alot easier without moving parts. Curved part really screwed alot of things.
 
ridered3 said:
Awesome work and hilarious killdozer reference!
Click to expand...

Buddy thought I was building one when I sent him a picture.

Fixed the door issue today by cutting off the curved metal piece and adjusting the hinges also.

Some additional heat bending and adjusting the straight piece at the end.
Door Panel rework.jpg


Much better fit along the curve area which results in a free swinging door.
Working door.jpg



Door rework.jpg



Spent half of the morning working on a mod for the Miller 252 welder to prepare for the Everlast 82i plasma torch. I would like to store the plasma torch on top of the welder since they are generally used together for me. This guy took it to the next level but basing the design off this thread including the power plugs.

Millermatic 252 exo cart

I got a shiny new Millermatic 252. It comes with two dinky handles on the front and nothing to hang your cords on. The 252 is replacing a Millermatic 180 that I had a on a cart with lots of drawers...which I really liked. So my plan for this machine is to get some storage. Anything beyond that...
weldingweb.com

Still alot of things left to complete. Probably still missing stuff.

Things to complete
Driver Door
1. Door latch setup: Need to find something to buy
2. Trim sheet metal for windows and profile
3. Finish weld and grind smooth
4. Figure out window trim
5. Select window material before trimming to size
6. Build windows clips

Passenger Door
1. Weld curve metal pieces up
2. Bend curve metal to fix from weld warp
3. Finish weld and grind smooth
4. Install sheet metal
5. Trim sheet metal for windows
6. Install window trim
7. Trim window to size
8. Build windows clips

Windshield
1. Finish weld and grind smooth
2. Install sheet metal
3. Trim sheet metal for windows
4. Trim sheet metal for windows
5. Install window trim
6. Trim window to size
7. Build windows clips

Rear Window
1. Finish weld and grind smooth
2. Trim mount down
3. Add lower mount
3. Install sheet metal
4. Trim sheet metal for windows
5. Trim sheet metal for windows
6. Install window trim
7. Trim window to size
8. Build windows clips

Misc
1. Panel to tractor edging to fill gaps
2. Build Cloth barrier to fill the voids
a. Hood gap including driver and passenger gaps.
b. Under seat area
3. Fill in gaps in canopy
 
Thornbird1 said:
Looks good. I dream of a tractor with a cab in the winter
Click to expand...
Just build one even if it looks bad. Still better to be warm


Worked on the side window panel setup over the last few days when I had time.

Amazing the amount of shims and clamps that can be used on projects.
Window Fixture.jpg


I went with a larger window that I will allow easy access to everything in cab or when I want a breeze. Later i will make a latch to hold it open.
window closed.jpg


Open
window open.jpg




Plasma cutter should be shipping early next week according to the update email.




Things to complete
Driver Door
1. Door latch setup: Need to find something to buy. Latch on way from ebay
2. Trim sheet metal for windows and profile
3. Finish weld and grind smooth
4. Figure out window trim
5. Select window material before trimming to size
6. Build windows clips

Passenger Door
1. Weld curve metal pieces up
2. Bend curve metal to fix from weld warp
3. Finish weld and grind smooth
4. Install sheet metal
5. Trim sheet metal for windows
6. Install window trim
7. Trim window to size
8. Build windows clips

Windshield
1. Finish weld and grind smooth
2. Install sheet metal
3. Trim sheet metal for windows
4. Trim sheet metal for windows
5. Install window trim
6. Trim window to size
7. Build windows clips

Rear Window
1. Finish weld and grind smooth
2. Trim mount down
3. Add lower mount
3. Install sheet metal
4. Trim sheet metal for windows
5. Trim sheet metal for windows
6. Install window trim
7. Trim window to size
8. Build windows clips

Misc
1. Panel to tractor edging to fill gaps
2. Build Cloth barrier to fill the voids: ordered velcro and ballistic nylon from amazon for a test setup
a. Hood gap including driver and passenger gaps.
b. Under seat area
3. Fill in gaps in canopy
 
Dethmachinefab said:
You could probably bump bend those tubes in that wide radius with a harbor freight tubing kinker.
Click to expand...

Finally won the auction that was extended twice due to "weather" so about 3 weeks late.

Not bad for $240 out the door. Included 1in sq die set, 2in sq die set and the stand 1.5 round tube die. Crate was originally from 2012. Includes the 1in sq die I needed for the project.
Roll Bender.jpg


Rolling first piece. People are not joking about the work out.
Exercise.jpg


Test fit
Not enough.jpg


Then I over rolled the piece but I was able to correct it.
Fixing overbend.jpg


Perfect fit to the template which is hard to see the white soap stone line. I will need to make 2 more
Roll tube.jpg


Received in a cheap door handle set off ebay for $22.
1738122114774.png


Bracket for mechanism. Table and shim kit works well for layout
Door mech layout.jpg


Test fit on tractor door
Door mech.jpg


The mechanism stud nut fit perfectly in a 1in x .125 wall square tube. Hard to see in picture but the width of the nut is about .010 less than the inside width of the tube.
Tube nut.jpg
 
I built a ROPS for my dozer with some add on's like you are doing
the only thing that I will suggest, be sure you can get to everything that you need to as for as maintenance goes without getting in the way
 
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