Mil spec says it should be good for 40,000 cycles at half load, I think it will run at about 1/10 load. Not sure what the cycle count of a brake pedal is but I assume it’s pretty high.
Amen about anything you buy being junk and too expensive for what it is.Decided on a trailer as I cant take the buggy anywhere without one.
Flat deck drive over fenders with ramps.
14K downrated to 10K.
1/8" treadplate deck
3"x6"x3/16" main rails
2-1/2"x1-1/2"x1/8" cross members
Ramp storage, adjustable ramp width for loading buggies, quads, and tractors.
Flat deck long enough to haul 20' sticks.
Tread plate is 48”x96” so deck width is 96”
Whatever corrugated deck and formed channel Uhaul uses you can pretty reliably put minor bends in it with point loads, chain binders and a 6' pipe.
But 3/16 deck with alternating 3" and 4" channels every foot is unreasonably heavy for what you want to do.
You can thank me later.
I can't decide
a over travel will bend/break the stem.
Really depends on the tractor/equipment. My dad has a Kubota SVL75 that's just shy of 9500 lbs. unloaded that I may be moving cross country....along with several smaller 48hp 4wd tractors. Same sort of deal if you ever think you may have to use your trailer to go get a broken down tow rig since the light 3/4T and up diesels are 8K empty.
All that makes complete sense. I appreciate you answering the questions.
Even in CA, I hate all the trailers in our fleet made from box, which I think is only 2 now. It's 3x as difficult to repair when it inevitably gets messed up and there's really no benefit of box to channel here.
store.felling.com
And they don't wear out hangers. And when they do wear out the spot they slip on you just tack weld a square of steel on over.
I think if you're gonna go one trick pony route it would be way cooler to design a subframe that clamps to the tubes of the buggy and holds a single torsion axle and another that clamps to the tubes up front and has a tongue and jack. If you already have the buggy modeled in CAD you can dial in the tongue weight just right. You could have the axle slide under at ride height and then only take the weight once you use the winch to suck down the front and rear.
Wonder how well the spindles will hold up over time. I can't tell if it's an 8 lug axle or not....pattern looks too small to be 8 but can't really tell from the pics.
Honestly that's kind of a disappointment. I was expecting something far lighter and far more specialized.
"If ya can't do it right, do it fast."
Love the start! You're going to use 3" slipper springs, right? What kind of end; the flat, radius, hook? Looking at the 3" online with a quick search....seems the Dexter brand ~30.5" 5 leaf 10K rated packs are twice the no-name ones. I can't imagine they are worth the extra money, but do you have an opinion on that?Started on the trailer. Want to have it painted before the rain starts. Ahead of schedule so far. Tread plate sheets are oversized so I have to get them trimmed to true 48x96.
Sure is nice having a hoist to turn it over. At work with a forklift is a pain and takes forever.
So you went Dexter 4K rated springs b/c you know they'll hold up to 10K? Not disputing your experience in the slightest, just making sure I understand what you're saying.
4K per spring , so 4Kx4QTY=16K
www.dexteraxle.com
Gotcha. Seems like the online places I'm looking at aren't rating per spring....but maybe I'm not understanding how they're listed...which is pretty funny considering I swapped from a pair of 3500 lb axles and springs on my 7K rated car hauler, to two 7K lb axles and thought I was putting 5K springs each axle (for a total spring weight capacity of 10K) with the 14K lb total capacity axles (after reinforcing the whole structure and widening the deck). Who knows what I actually ended up with, lol.
Start by pulling codes and watching fuel trims with a scanner.
Fuel trims were near 0 at idle, once revved up they moved around, highest number was 9 for a second
