Axle alignment bar and pucks

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    Axle alignment bar and pucks

    I need to pull my front 44, but pretty sure the housing is bent.

    Searching around to buy a setup and they seem $$ for what it is. Also on youtube you see alot of guys making their own setup and no issues. From nicely machine aluminum and stainless to 3d printed pucks and string line.


    This is not a road warrior but i do want to drive it straight when i do get on the road lol.

    That being said. Getting a 70" solid mild steel bar and have my buddy turn some aluminum pucks will be a 3rd of the cost of the kits on summit racing. Plus im not in business for this, just a wheeler.

    Am i missing anything?

    I see people use STAINLESS 70" bar, why stainless? Just bc resistant to rust? Less drag on the puck sliding into housing end?

    I can see using purer materials for a race shop, but foe the garage dude i dont want to drop that $$ on a tool that might get used 5 times in my lifetime lol.

    I tried looking at poly perf, ruff stuff and couldnt find any kits...thought they had them. Most of the pricing i found is summit racing mittler bros $$$. I do remember i think it was 66cjdean made some too but still coukdnt find his site.

    ​​​​

    #2
    Are you trying to verify that it's bent? Or trying to straighten it out?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Chkn View Post
      Are you trying to verify that it's bent? Or trying to straighten it out?
      Same question. First post is confusing....

      Comment


        #4
        Second question, how are you going to straighten the housing?

        I don't think it matters what the pucks and bar are made from. I made some pucks out of aluminum then used some poo pipe for a straight bar and it worked out just fine. The advantage to using a ground bar is that you can make the fit between the bar and pucks tighter which helps reduce play at the end of the bar if you want to be real accurate.

        Kevin

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Ghetto Fab. View Post
          Second question, how are you going to straighten the housing?

          I don't think it matters what the pucks and bar are made from. I made some pucks out of aluminum then used some poo pipe for a straight bar and it worked out just fine. The advantage to using a ground bar is that you can make the fit between the bar and pucks tighter which helps reduce play at the end of the bar if you want to be real accurate.

          Kevin
          ​​​​​​

          If i need to straighten. I have 6" i beams, chain, bottle jacks, oxy/acy for heat or a weed burner for heat.

          Thats the info i was looking for, regarding the homebrew alignment setup. Not needing it to verify the axle is bent, but if i can do a cheap alignment bar setup and not wait on shipping.

          I would say that if it was bent bad, it would be obvious. Like leaking oil at the Cs or at the diff. Or smiling at you. Tie rod and drag link are bent, so i removed those visual barriers.

          What im dealing with is my horrible vision and a potentially tweaked housing.

          I have the resources and time, and dont feel necessary on droppin cash for an alignment bar setup that trophy truck teams use lol. Plus when i pull the axle out of the truck, im gonna weld the diff to the tubes so why not have an alignment bar. Hell the heat from welding the tubes to the diff could pull it one way, in that case i would be better off with the bar/pucks on hand and not sit and wait.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by SLOWPOKE693 View Post

            Same question. First post is confusing....
            Well i think i just asked if i was missing anything regarding a cheaper lower quality alignment setup.

            From guys 3d printing to polished 6061 aluminum. Thats a broad stroke, and while youtube is great...i know that guys here actually wheel and build.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Chkn View Post
              Are you trying to verify that it's bent? Or trying to straighten it out?
              does it matter? if so why?

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                #8
                Originally posted by rockyota83 View Post

                does it matter? if so why?
                Probably doesn’t but would be sweet to see some chained bottle jack axle straightening action going on

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Chkn View Post

                  Probably doesn’t but would be sweet to see some chained bottle jack axle straightening action going on
                  I use a bottle jack and chain to preload a ford 9in when welding on a truss and checked it with my alignment jig before and after and it was exactly the same, perfect.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Like mentioned, anything round and straight will work. Cold rolled solid may get expensive in ~1.5" size, I'm honestly not sure. DOM tube would probably work fine.

                    String line is an interesting idea. Might be hard to be super accurate with it, but in my experience, so was the alignment bar.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I ordered 1.25" cold rolled solid bar online and it wasn't too much money and paid for itself and my 9in alignment tool straightening and welding new ends on one rearend

                      I got my bar from this place and works awesome.

                      https://www.metalsdepot.com/cold-fin...sh-steel-round
                      Last edited by TTMotorsports; 5 days ago.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks for the input and links.

                        Will be digging into it this week!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I have only successfully straightened one rear end with a torch and water to heat and cool it to get it to pull one time. So if that is what youre doing be patient and not in a rush and it's doable for sure

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I bought some pucks on ebay a few years back and used some 1.25" stress proof rod from a local steel supplier to build my bar. Used it on my 14 rear steer build. When I was done building it, one side was slightly out of straight. Used a rosebud and quenched it a few times till it was straight.
                            The webwheeler formally known as MNorby

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'm in the middle of this for fabbing a Toyota housing. I'm using a 40mm precision-ground turned 12L14 steel bar, 40mm ID bearings as pucks in the third member, and the OEM Toyota bearings/pockets for the outer pucks.

                              You need a bar with certified diameter and straightness tolerance, and that usually means something precision ground. If the OD varies you won't have consistent puck engagement, and even mild steel DOM isn't rated for any straightness tolerance. It looks like 4130 tubing is rated pretty well for straightness though (per McMaster). Since you're working with an American axle and custom pucks you have more options for off the shelf tubing/bars that aren't metric.

                              Comment

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