My new beat up broke down Ram truck

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    My new beat up broke down Ram truck

    So I came across this truck on craigslist a couple days ago and decided I needed another project.

    It's a 97' ram with a bad motor and beat sheet metal but it's a rust free California truck by golly.
    Someone also used it to practice their body work on so it's got that going for it too!

    I loaded up the dog and ol lady and drove 3.5 hours to take a look. It was as expected, a beat to shit fleet vehicle someone brought here from cali to restore. They gave up and now it's mine for the low low price of 1500.(almost) It should be here in a couple days.

    Click image for larger version
Name:	Screenshot_20200912-221445_Chrome.jpg
Views:	203
Size:	93.8 KB
ID:	130556 Click image for larger version
Name:	Screenshot_20200912-221524_Chrome.jpg
Views:	205
Size:	197.1 KB
ID:	130557
    Last edited by Ugly pumpkin; 1 week ago.

    #2
    Link fail. Oh well.

    Nothing crazy planned for it. Replace blown engine, fix whatever else I can find, drive it to work. Truck stuff. When time and money allows, fix or pay to get fixed beat up sheetmetal. I've never done any major bodywork so that should be fun.
    First question: Since the motor is getting replaced, why not go bigger? Is the 5.9 a simple swap? Or worth the effort?

    Click image for larger version
Name:	IMG_5853.jpg
Views:	211
Size:	443.8 KB
ID:	130576 Click image for larger version
Name:	IMG_5899.jpg
Views:	206
Size:	656.8 KB
ID:	130577 Click image for larger version
Name:	IMG_5897.jpg
Views:	204
Size:	292.7 KB
ID:	130578

    Comment


      #3
      It came with the stock wheels and wore out tires. I'll keep the wheels and get some new meats for it. Duratracs or something along that line.

      I'm debating on junkyard engine and pray or new/rebuild. The budget is tight because I spend it all on beer and lucky strikes. Any company I should be leaning toward or away from?

      I've never done much for bodywork and have barely any tools for it so any insight into that is much appreciated. I'm thinking it's cheaper without the rust? What should the budget be if I farm it out?

      The interior is in good shape. Probably replaced at some point so I'll leave it. It does need a dash pad and someone in the other thread reccomend one so that is covered.

      Undercoating. Going to attempt this myself before it sees the saltroads of Michigan. Who has used what? What works and doesn't work?

      Transmission. It's automatic. That's all I know. Seller said it worked and I am inclined to believe him. He was very genuine and I got a good vibe from him.
      Run it? Rebuild it? Engine will be out so...? Any known issues I should be looking for? I rebuilt 1 automatic transmission in school 15 years ago with 2 classmates. But I ain't skerred if it should be done.

      Anything else in general about these trucks I need to look out for or change or kill with fire?

      In conclusion: I feel like a retard for spending 1500$ on a beat up old work truck with a blown motor that I hope will show up in 3 or 4 days.
      Help me sink more money into it and I will document my fuckery here. Click image for larger version
Name:	00i0i_38wfvyt2Jyj_0t20lM_600x450.jpg
Views:	201
Size:	25.8 KB
ID:	130606 Click image for larger version
Name:	00000_jCIgMi9oHU3_0t20lM_600x450.jpg
Views:	198
Size:	23.5 KB
ID:	130607 Click image for larger version
Name:	00v0v_eBJLOE6ViQk_0t20lM_600x450.jpg
Views:	198
Size:	22.9 KB
ID:	130608

      P.S. It's rust free!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

      Comment


        #4
        Another intended use for this pig is to haul us and our gear 3 hours north to our favorite little camping/fishing spot. So I'll need a way to keep everything in the bed dry. I have zero experience with bed covers. What do you fuckers use that works good?

        Thanks!

        Comment


          #5
          I have a '98(318) w/ 180k, owned it since '04 and 70k.

          I have replaced:

          46RE(twice) first I blew up the pump, second was a shit rebuild from the first and bearings gave up. Engine related shit such as water pump, a/c, tune up, etc. Never touched the suspension, never had any funny wear, death wobble, or steering issues. Started a bad howl from the rear end and parked it.

          Personally I'd buy an engine from LKQ, I've purchased several in the past and they garuantee them. Closest i saw to you was 2 hours away in Toledo and $700. Would be the easiest plug and play.

          off topic- know anyone with the last name of Chartier in Port Huron?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by TRINDU View Post
            I have a '98(318) w/ 180k, owned it since '04 and 70k.

            I have replaced:

            46RE(twice) first I blew up the pump, second was a shit rebuild from the first and bearings gave up. Engine related shit such as water pump, a/c, tune up, etc. Never touched the suspension, never had any funny wear, death wobble, or steering issues. Started a bad howl from the rear end and parked it.

            Personally I'd buy an engine from LKQ, I've purchased several in the past and they garuantee them. Closest i saw to you was 2 hours away in Toledo and $700. Would be the easiest plug and play.

            off topic- know anyone with the last name of Chartier in Port Huron?
            Was that the only trans option? If so I guess I might as well attempt a rebuild.

            Used engines around here are ~$500. I'll keep LKQ in my back pocket for now.

            I'm guessing axles are 9 1/4" and dana 44?

            My retard logic tells me this:

            Might as well rebuild the engine since it's out.
            Might as well rebuild the trans since the engine is rebuilt.
            Might as well fix the body and make it halfway pretty since the running gear will be rock solid.

            My budget replys with

            I company by that name has been dredging some ponds for us at work off and on for the last couple years. Not sure if the spelling is the same. Red trucks. Haven't really got to know any of them. I've only been living here for about 8 years.

            Thanks for the help.

            Comment


              #7
              A lot of "blah, blah, blah" and not very much real info. How many miles is on it? Was the transmission replaced before? Rear axle rebuilt? Front wheel bearing assemblies? The transmission is most likely a 46RE, the electrically controlled descendant of the 46RH, which was based off the legendary 727. The 46RE is about the only possibility as the 42RE was not used on V8s that year, and the 47RE was only used with the Cummins and 8.0L V10.

              A 5.9L V8 swap is possible, as well as a 5.9L Cummins swap, but the 360 would be far easier, though it will require swapping more than the just the engine. Computers, wiring, emissions and the flexplate would need changed off the top of my head. The Cummins would need all that plus the transmission, transfer case, front suspension upgrade, etc. and in my opinion, is not really worth it. Actually, I would say neither swap is worth the effort for what you seem to want to use the truck for when there are more of these out available with the various options and it would be way easier to just buy another truck than tear it all apart, obtain the needed parts and built it all back again.

              If you go with a junkyard engine, make sure you get a guarantee or warranty as cracked heads are very common on Magnum engines. Personally, I wouldn't do anything without diagnosing what is wrong with the current engine. It's condition will be the best info on where to go next and what to do. If it's an easy fix, to hell with swapping it.

              Other problems with the BR series are rust in general, which may not be an issue with this one, the dash falls apart, transmission/transmission cooling issues, rear axle slack due to the 9 1/4's shitty design, unit bearing issues, brake issues and the usual electrical problems with an older truck. I've also seen a lot of issues with bushings wearing out in the front links causing a lot of banging noises when hitting bumps.

              If you need to know anything about the options on the truck I can get the option list if you get me the last 8 of the VIN.
              1988 Dodge Ramcharger 2018 Ram 2500-Sleipnir
              Odin Owns Ye All

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Elwenil View Post
                A lot of "blah, blah, blah" and not very much real info. How many miles is on it? Was the transmission replaced before? Rear axle rebuilt? Front wheel bearing assemblies? The transmission is most likely a 46RE, the electrically controlled descendant of the 46RH, which was based off the legendary 727. The 46RE is about the only possibility as the 42RE was not used on V8s that year, and the 47RE was only used with the Cummins and 8.0L V10.

                A 5.9L V8 swap is possible, as well as a 5.9L Cummins swap, but the 360 would be far easier, though it will require swapping more than the just the engine. Computers, wiring, emissions and the flexplate would need changed off the top of my head. The Cummins would need all that plus the transmission, transfer case, front suspension upgrade, etc. and in my opinion, is not really worth it. Actually, I would say neither swap is worth the effort for what you seem to want to use the truck for when there are more of these out available with the various options and it would be way easier to just buy another truck than tear it all apart, obtain the needed parts and built it all back again.

                If you go with a junkyard engine, make sure you get a guarantee or warranty as cracked heads are very common on Magnum engines. Personally, I wouldn't do anything without diagnosing what is wrong with the current engine. It's condition will be the best info on where to go next and what to do. If it's an easy fix, to hell with swapping it.

                Other problems with the BR series are rust in general, which may not be an issue with this one, the dash falls apart, transmission/transmission cooling issues, rear axle slack due to the 9 1/4's shitty design, unit bearing issues, brake issues and the usual electrical problems with an older truck. I've also seen a lot of issues with bushings wearing out in the front links causing a lot of banging noises when hitting bumps.

                If you need to know anything about the options on the truck I can get the option list if you get me the last 8 of the VIN.
                Fair enough.

                I have about 20 minutes of eyes on time at this point. So blah blah blah is pretty much what we're working with for the moment.

                180k on the instrument panel.

                46RE, got it. Decendant of 727 inspires hope.
                Off to research it.

                Nothing visible new underneath it. I did not bother driving it. So who knows what is on the brink of disaster.

                At 180k, and being a fleet vehicle most of its life I'd assume it was kept in good running shape until the engine let loose. At that point it had passed some age/mileage limit and was retired.


                360 was the only thing I was looking at slapping in there unless there was a bigger small block it came with. Sounds like I'm sticking with the 5.2.

                Current engine: PO described it pretty well. He bought it with "new head gaskets", drove it a bit and it went to shit on him. White smoke out the exhaust, losing coolant, about a gallon of coolant in the crankcase and water in cylinder 2. I'm assuming bad gasket job or cracked head/block. So if cracked heads are common, that's probably the problem.
                Knowing the trouble water in the crankcase causes, I'm expecting a full rebuild. At least that is my luck.

                Barely a lick of rust. Any undercoating recommendation to keep it that way?

                Dash is gone. Need a replacement. Someone mentioned a brand I need to look into.

                Trans is most likely coming out. What are the known issues and what are the fixes? What rebuild kit should I be looking at if required or desired?

                I've never touched a 9 1/4" What is the design/slack issue and what is the fix?

                I'll take a hard look at the brakes, unit bearings and bushings.

                I have a late 90's jeep that I would rather had beat my dick with a hammer than deal with the electronic issues it has had. So we'll see how it goes with this one.

                VIN VJ614688

                Thanks for the input.

                Comment


                  #9
                  VIN 1B7HF13Y6VJ614688
                  Model Year 1997
                  Family BR - REGULAR CAB PICK-UP
                  Engine ELF - Engine - "Magnum" 5.2L SMPI V8
                  Transmission DGT - 4-Spd. Automatic 46RE Transmission
                  Market U - U.S.
                  Body Model 6L32 - DODGE RAM 1500 CLUB CAB 8FT BOX 4WD 154.7
                  Build Date 5/17/97
                  Trim *P1 - Premium Cloth 40/20/40 Bench Seat
                  Trim Color -K5 - CAMEL
                  Tire TYM - LT245/75R16C OWL All Terrain Tires


                  *P1 Premium Cloth 40/20/40 Bench Seat
                  -K5 CAMEL
                  0EG FAM: BR TRACKING: 60807T12
                  173 Zone 73-San Francisco
                  1AA U.S. Dealer Retail
                  24G Customer Preferred Package 24G
                  2TG Customer Preferred Package 2TG
                  3VT Customer Preferred Discount
                  4KZ 4X4 Tracking
                  4XQ Pickups Air Bag Tracking
                  5A6 Waterbase Paint
                  5IG BR-Vehicle Family
                  5IV P2-Vehicle Family
                  605 California State Code
                  6F4 Paint Order Code
                  905 California State Code
                  A05 5.2L ENGINE(ELF)/4SP AUTO TRANS(DGT)
                  ADA Light Group
                  ADJ Heavy Duty Service Group
                  AHC Trailer Tow Group
                  AJK Convenience Group
                  AJP Power Convenience Group
                  APA Monotone Paint
                  ASP SLT Decor Group
                  BAZ 136 Amp Alternator
                  BCQ 750 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
                  BGJ Pwr Disc/Drum Rr Anti-Lock Brakes
                  BKA 11x2 Rear Drum Brakes
                  CBE 40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
                  CGT Driver Air Bag Only
                  CHE Deluxe Headliner
                  CKE Floor Covering Carpet
                  CLA Front Floor Mats
                  CSP Passenger Assist Handle
                  CSR Passenger Assist Handles
                  CUD Mini Overhead Console
                  DGB All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions
                  DGT 4-Spd. Automatic 46RE Transmission
                  DHA Lock-Up Torque Converter
                  DHK Shift-on-the-Fly,231HD Transfer Case
                  DJC 195MM Front Axle
                  DMH 3.92 Rear Axle Ratio
                  DRB Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle
                  DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle
                  EAA All Engines
                  EAG All Gas Engine
                  ELF Engine - "Magnum" 5.2L SMPI V8
                  GAC Tinted Glass Windows
                  GBB Tinted Windshield Glass
                  GCB Front Door Tinted Glass
                  GNA Rear View Day/Night Mirror
                  GNM Passenger Side Sun Visor w/Mirror
                  GPP Power 6 x 9 Bright Mirrors
                  GVB All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
                  GXM Remote Keyless Entry
                  HAA Air Conditioning
                  HGA Hood Insulation
                  HGB Dash Liner Insulation
                  JAY Instrument Cluster w/Tach
                  JCB 120 MPH Primary Speedometer
                  JHA Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
                  JJA Cigar Lighter
                  JJB Dual Note Electric Horns
                  JJJ Power Outlets - 12V && Cigar Lighter
                  JPA Power Windows
                  JPB Power Locks
                  K17 Bodyside Molding
                  K1X BLACK - MOLDING - BODYSIDE PROTECTIVE,W/
                  KRN STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
                  KTN STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
                  LAA Seat Belt Alert-3rd Row
                  LBA Map/Courtesy Lamp
                  LBC Glove Box Lamp
                  LDA Underhood Lamp
                  LMA Halogen Headlamps
                  LPE Cargo Lamp
                  MBF Bright Rear Bumper
                  MCT Bright Front Bumper
                  MDA Front License Plate Bracket
                  MFD Bright Grille
                  MHA Black Windshield Moldings
                  MPB Black Tailgate Applique
                  MWD Removable Tailgate w/Caliper Latches
                  MXB Front Air Dam
                  MXC Front Bumper Sight Shields
                  NAE California Emissions
                  NBK EVAP Control System
                  NFV 35 Gallon Fuel Tank
                  NHB Auxiliary Transmission Oil Cooler
                  NHM Speed Control
                  NMC Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
                  PFK Light Driftwood Satin Glow
                  QFK Light Driftwood Satin Glow
                  RAA All Radio Equipped Vehicles
                  RAZ AM/FM Cassette Compact Disc Radio
                  RCE 6 Infinity Speakers
                  RDD Fixed Long Mast Antenna
                  SBA Variable Assist Power Steering
                  SCV Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
                  SFB Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
                  SGB Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
                  SHA Front Stabilizer Bar
                  SUA Tilt Steering Column
                  TBB Spare Tire - Full Size/Winch Carrier
                  TBM Tire Carrier Winch
                  TYM LT245/75R16C OWL All Terrain Tires
                  TZA Goodyear Brand Tires
                  WLB Steel Spare Wheel
                  WND 16X7.0 Cast Aluminum Wheels
                  XBS Pickup Box
                  XCM Vendor Painted Cargo Box
                  XEF Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
                  YAA Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
                  YGE 5 Additional Gallons of Gas
                  Z6A GVW Rating - 6400#
                  ZBS Spring - Left Rear
                  ZHD Spring - Left Front
                  ZPS Spring - Right Rear
                  ZWC Spring - Right Front
                  1988 Dodge Ramcharger 2018 Ram 2500-Sleipnir
                  Odin Owns Ye All

                  Comment


                    #10
                    9 1/4" axles have a weak crush sleeve to preload the pinion that will eventually cause the pinion to lose preload and eat the pinion bearing, seal and then the ring and pinion set. The backlash adjustment is retained by a couple little clips that do very little and it will eventually lose the backlash setting. Basically you end up with an axle that acts like it was assembled by a blind guy. This is the common cause for the "Dodge clunk" heard when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa. In my opinion, the correct fix is a D60 swap as I scrap every 9 1/4" I get my hands on. But you can get by with a solid pinion spacer kit to replace the pinion bearings and over-torquing the backlash adjusters. The other issue is the center pin coming out and trying to exit the housing which locks the rear. Not much you can do about that other than keep an eye on it and whenever it starts making noise or acting weird, pull the cover and check things out.
                    1988 Dodge Ramcharger 2018 Ram 2500-Sleipnir
                    Odin Owns Ye All

                    Comment


                      #11


                      Thanks!

                      All that seems to jive with what I saw on the truck.

                      What is the fix for the cracked head problem?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ugly pumpkin View Post

                        Thanks!

                        All that seems to jive with what I saw on the truck.

                        What is the fix for the cracked head problem?
                        Replace the heads. Aluminum aftermarket heads are an option, but probably not worth the cost for what you are doing.
                        1988 Dodge Ramcharger 2018 Ram 2500-Sleipnir
                        Odin Owns Ye All

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Elwenil View Post
                          9 1/4" axles have a weak crush sleeve to preload the pinion that will eventually cause the pinion to lose preload and eat the pinion bearing, seal and then the ring and pinion set. The backlash adjustment is retained by a couple little clips that do very little and it will eventually lose the backlash setting. Basically you end up with an axle that acts like it was assembled by a blind guy. This is the common cause for the "Dodge clunk" heard when shifting from forward to reverse and vice versa. In my opinion, the correct fix is a D60 swap as I scrap every 9 1/4" I get my hands on. But you can get by with a solid pinion spacer kit to replace the pinion bearings and over-torquing the backlash adjusters. The other issue is the center pin coming out and trying to exit the housing which locks the rear. Not much you can do about that other than keep an eye on it and whenever it starts making noise or acting weird, pull the cover and check things out.
                          Thanks for the info! Will take a good look at it and keep an axle swap on the back burner.

                          Keep the info coming.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Elwenil View Post

                            Replace the heads. Aluminum aftermarket heads are an option, but probably not worth the cost for what you are doing.
                            I guess I asked the question wrong.

                            Do all factory heads have issues with cracking?

                            If so, is there a way to mitigate that issue without spending money on aftermarket?

                            If not, which factory heads should I be looking for?

                            I guess if the bottom end checks out, I can just take care of the top and spend the saved money on other parts of the ugly bitch.

                            The loose gestamation of what to do.

                            Test in this order: look at it and drink beer, coolant pressure, cylinder leak down, compression and oil pressure.

                            I'm not planning to build anything crazy. Get it running good and reliable, pretty it up if I can, replace anything that's broke with better within budget and go.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I doubt the bottom end is good to go sitting in a coolant milkshake. Or maybe youre the guy who polishes with emery cloth and bearing slap.

                              Good news is you have 3.92s.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X