Recent content by HYDRODYNAMIC

You don't make all your money off the initial sale, you make your retirement off the maintenance / race prep. Even race cars are subscription based these days.

Beams are independent.

The big bell axle assembly will pass through the knuckle. RCV made the big bell just smaller than the unit bearing. The stock knuckle has a lip that needs to be removed for the big bells to clear. These knuckles don't have that lip. The big bell boot will not pass so you have to hold the boot...

Wheel check with super high steer. Wheels are 17” x 8.5” x 4.5” backspacing The high steer spacers are aluminum so while it looks like a lot, they don’t weight much. Total outer weight minus, hub, rotor, caliper is 70LB

After seeing how rusty and muddy some of the stock hubs are with the seals, I am leaning towards no seals so the water does not get sucked in from temp change and held in by the seal. With no seals, everything can dry. The unit bearings can always be greased to purge out any air and water. The...

I definitely don't have the time to be welding up outers for others. I need all the time I can get for my own buggy and trips. These were always meant to be kit form for garage fabricators with no machines. I cheated and used the lathe to bore the hub ID only to drum sand them for a perfect...

Finished welding. Drilled the grease ports. Drum sanded the hub ID which was only off .05” on the diameter. Only the width was off. The vertical was over by around .05”. So it egg shaped warped from the weld. I would add more material to the flat sections and make it round as well as key the...

5 plates of .5” equal 2.5” I could have done the main .5” with two 1” plates stacked but the laser cut quality on 1” plate was not going to be as good as the .5” plate. Could have waterjetted the 2” plate as well. Way easier to send all the files to one shop and say run all of it on a .5” plate...

Square tube on the diamond and a M series Warn, bringing back all the memories, please continue. I know you already did the rectangle tail lights, but throw those in the scrap bin and do the round trailer lights up high possibly off the end of the bed rails.

90% of the aftermarket are still using ball joints upper and lower. 10% are using spherical bearings which are downrated to 20% or less when running axial loads and you still have to replace them as they have a race program lifespan. A tree ran into me going about 8MPH and the upper F550 ball...

Cross posting for the unfortunates that aren't following my build thread. :flipoff2:Dust Buggy Here is an option to all the stock ball joint/uniball outers that the aftermarket is saturated with. Welded them up which took about 6 hours. .030 ER70S Triple passed all the corners 19.7V 413WFS on...

Same here. Even if it was a complete pile and headed to the dumpster, it has been a fun project so far.

Welded them up which took about 6 hours. .030 ER70S Triple passed all the corners 19.7V 413WFS on a Multimatic 220 Didn’t stop to measure, didn’t want to know. They would pivot freely until welding the inner C’s then they got tight. Once cooled, I pulled the bolts which came out easy by hand...

Both knuckles and C’s are tacked together. They pivot with zero effort and no binding. When both were cooling they pivoted and fell over to one side with no input. Just the weight of not being perfectly true. The concentricity of the inner C’s plates was the only thing I had to work on with one...

The outside of the laminated plates will be welded but they don’t need much to hold them together as they have a lot of area and are clamped by the bolts. Maybe a quick light TIG pass as I don’t need to fill a large fillet. That would allow for jumping around start stop and see if they start...