You are more than welcome to mix and match OEM steering components to achieve a drag link to the high steer arm. Most opt for DOM and weld-in bungs to run simpler TREs or heim joints.
Your thoughts are all over the place.
You need high steer with spring over.
Not sure what the rest has to do with the thread. Unibody? What the **** are you talking about?
This was common knowledge 20 years ago, but man there are so few YJ questions these days. It's nice to see them back.
Put this on your YJ box:
https://www.wfoconcepts.com/series-1235-wagoneer-pitman-arm-jeep.html?Variant_ID=327
YJ Pitman arms are too short for a Dana 44. That pitman will...
What he's saying is large AH ratings with a 12V system are wasted since you can't recover them as quickly. Hardware wise and AH wise you are the same if you are running 4 12V batteries in parallel vs in series. The difference is that you lose a ton of charging capacity with solar and shore...
Things have escalated.
I have discovered that my hydroboost had a bit of a leak and that my master cylinder had seen better days.
In case there was a question of which master to use for a 1.25" GM Hydroboost that is low clearance and similar to the "Corvette" master - that part no is NMC11302...
Also a great tool. I always miss the light count. I carry this exact one for my tuned A9L computer in the GPW. I used the Moates QH to do the fine detail but this is a good tool to have with you.
This. It's the free-est and easiest to start.
Next is to unplug the spout connector and check the base timing. Should be at 10° BTDC. EEC-IV Fords use timing and IAC to control idle.
OP - what ECU is your pops using?
I found that although that current at 12V is a problem - the biggest problem with the Tesla style calipers is that the bridge flexes quite a bit because the spacer on the caliper adds some leverage. This likely limits some of the available clamping power. I'd be curious about the F-150...