'56 willys truck

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    #76
    from WILLYN: I've been using self drilling sheetmetal screws for lots of jeep applications and have had good results. I wouldn't hesitate to assemble the entire console with them.
    Hold it where you want it and screw it together. When using these they will raise a burr on the top piece and sometimes the bottom one as well. I later remove the panel and deburr the first piece completely from both sides...this usually wipes the threads out on this piece and makes it more like a drilled hole. I knock the burr off the top of the hole I'm screwing into, but leave it on the underside so as to keep the "threads" more intact.
    Once the burrs are gone he sheet metal will pull up nicely to each other and they rarely come u screwed when using this technique. You can start with #8 screws and later if they strip you can move up to #10. They will drill into 1/8" angle with no problem. I use pan head self drilling Phillips screws, it's hard to strip them with a philips tip, hex heads are a different story.

    from me: WILLYN--on my 48 build I used those self tapping screws a ton and I am using them on this truck too, especially at the removable floor panels & dash re-mod. For some reason I had a burr up my butt to use pan head bolts vs the screws on the console. One reason is my pea brain started to think about multiple panel removal and re-install and reusing the screws and if they'd stay tight, but you are right that just jumping a screw size will work(done that too)!! Bottom line though you are right the screws do work.

    So I started to make the new dash panel for the gauges, radio and switches and such, which required me to cut out the original gauge panel. I cut it out in one big piece and saved it. Might try and sell it with the gauges or hang onto it. Time will tell. This new panel will be on a piano hinge like I did in my '48 build to make wiring access much easier. The Intellitronix gauge pod and radio are ready to be mounted, but I'm holding off until I figure out where to put the gazillion switches, because I've got both ARB style rocker that require the rectangular hole or some smaller illuminated rocker switches that require a 1/2" drilled hole. I like the 1/2" hole ones due to their ease of install, but the illuminated ARB style can take different covers with labels and I think they are very nice, , but those switches are $$$ and they take up more space and space is something these trucks & jeeps are short on!!

    I also made a panel to replace the glove compartment door at the steering wheel, because I can't use a door there as the steering wheel is in the way. I'm not sure if I'll put anything in that panel or not. Again time will tell as I move on putting switches and such in.

    Oh yea did a lot of sitting and staring last night thinking about switch placement and I still need to do more, because I have the following switches(I can think of now) to think about:

    Seat heater driver
    Seat heater passenger
    Fan driver
    Fan passenger
    Front LED roof light bar
    Rear LED roof light bar
    Front bull bar LED light bar
    Bumper Corner pods
    Rock lights
    Ignition
    Heater/Fan
    Windshield wiper
    Windshield washer(future?)
    Headlights
    Dome
    Air compressor
    Front winch(future)
    Rear winch(future--need to buy winch too if I want to add one to the rear)


    Well my driver's side window decided to finally start to break apart(was cracked) from all the door slamming, so I purchased the gasket kit from Walck's for both doors and commenced to removing the door glass and parts.

    New glass(1/4" gray laminated tint) is now ready to go back in once the rest of the gaskets arrive.

    I also looked into why the door was so hard to shut and open. Latch works fine, but the door sticks. So some hammer work on the door jamb and it's working much better. The door has been tweaked and the cab has some dents, so it's been crunched at some point. I haven't delved into finding the full extent of the area of crunches, but I will later. The bottom of the door is crusty rusty so I'll need to attack it and it rubs on the bottom too(part of the sticky problem, but not the major issue with the stickiness issue.

    Next will be the passenger door as it is sticky also.

    Wiring will be commencing soon, but I still need to fix the roof and that may be the next project to attack.

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      #77
      so if you made it this far this is where I last posted on page 2 about the rear corner armor on the body, so everything from here will commence from that point as that's where I'm at in the build.

      from mid page 2 to here is what I've done from 2017 to when I started this thread...hope that helps with pages 2- now....

      below was my partial vision in 2017, but I've changed a few things since then, as you've read...

      1992 TBI 5.7 may change it over to FAST fuel injection
      4L80e--may make it manual shift
      NW Fab eco box and ford np205 doubler w/ JB Fab triple stick shifter and B&M tranny shifter
      front diff will be a 1979 ford kingpin dana 60 with 5.38 gears & grizzly locker & revolution axles & yukon lock outs--has a truss, 3 or 4 link --knuckles Reid
      rear diff will GM 14 bolt with 5.38 gears, grizzly locker, disc brakes, 4 linked
      hydraulic assist steering
      14" coilovers
      39.5x16x17 Pitbull rockers and beadlocks
      caddy sts seats----changed out to Mastercraft
      roll cage--exo possible
      rocker protection of some sort
      boxing frame since it's really good condition






      Last edited by csutton7; 08-10-2020, 02:14 PM.

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        #78
        For wheel studs, I recently swapped dodge srw hubs onto a gm 60, and am currently messing with 8 lug 10 bolt hubs on a 44. I am using dorman 610-563. Drilled hubs to 5/8, drilled rotors 11/16. Using a press to get them in as its still a ridiculously tight fit. Dorman is very proud of these wheel studs.

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          #79
          you aren't kidding they are proud of those things, especially when you have to buy 32 of them....

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            #80
            Blending the driver’s side armor panel is almost complete...
            Attached Files

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              #81
              Progress has been slow, between the heat and having to help my brother's and really there's not much to show on the passenger side since it looks pretty much like the above driver's side. The passenger side still needs the door jamb finish welded and shaped and the rear bottom piece welded in, but I did start to weld in the final rear bottom piece on the driver's side last night and I hope to finish it tonight if the rain stays away.

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                #82
                My plan(hope) for the weekend is to attack the back of the cab--get all the paint off, prime it and bedliner paint at least the area where the bed butts up against the cab, but it's supposed to be mid to high 90's, so we shall see what I can get done. The attack is to commence after work, which means I may be able to get a bit more done, I hope.
                Last edited by csutton7; 2 weeks ago.

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                  #83
                  progress pic of back of cab and half of frame painted(still wet) with bed-liner before I got blast-furnaced out by the sun-hope to get to the other half this afternoon when the truck is in the shade if it's not boiling hot....
                  Attached Files

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                    #84
                    I got the other side done on Sunday, so now it's the very back that is left and the underside of the bed, but I need help moving the bed, so that hopefully happens this coming weekend. I used Herculiner on the frame. I have noticed that when the temp isn't up there the Herculiner takes a few days to cure, but when it's in the 90's it cures pretty fast. I used Krylon bedliner on the back of the cab to see if I would like it, but I had trouble with the can, so I won't be buying that again. I did go over the Krylon with the Herculiner. I also have the Rustoleum brand of bedliner and it cures pretty fast even if it isn't hot out.
                    Last edited by csutton7; 1 week ago.

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                      #85
                      I got the back of the frame ready for the bed and got the front of the bed stripped & painted, so now it's time to flip the bed upside down and attack it before I can put it back on. I also did some of the welding of the rear bumper to the frame which was needed before I could finish paint the frame.

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                        #86
                        Progress pics
                        Attached Files

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                          #87
                          The bed is back home, just need to buy some lock nuts to tighten her down.
                          Attached Files

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                            #88
                            Bed bolted down and I have some assistance, since my buddy from Kenya flew into town, so that helps tremendously.

                            So while he was removing paint from the back I clamped down the coilover reservoirs and started on playing fender designer. So I cut one of the fenders in half and in the 2nd pic I left them stock length on the down leg, but I didn't like that look, so I cut them shorter as seen in the 1st pic. I also took the one on the left and screwed it on the right to show even a shorter down leg, but I forgot to take a pic of it. Needless to say my mind isn't made up if I'm going to use these fenders or build new ones out of 3/16" or 1/4" plate, but I don't have enough of either to do that, so I've got some noggin' scratchin' to do. I have to build wheel wells also and again I'm thinkin' 3/16" or 1/4" plate vs building a frame and skinning it with some thinner material, but again material on hand to use plate steel is lacking. One more option is to just go buy some plate steel and build the fenders and wheel wells with wide pieces that are welded to the frame and bolted to the bed, but that takes $$$$ and I'm trying to save that for driveshafts, battery(s) and other assorted important to making it actually drive!!!
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by csutton7; 3 days ago.

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                              #89
                              More paint and rust removal= not a lot of fun, but it must be done—also worked on the passenger door jamb welding...
                              Attached Files

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