Tyler's Jeep Build

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    Tyler's Jeep Build

    A continuation: https://www.jkowners.com/threads/2-d...336186/page-11

    Jeep has been down for about 4 months, probably longest single period it's been out of commission. One more interesting little cracked-metal fix.

    Found cracks right at the base of each front strut tower:





    Ran a simulation on the loading, turns out there is a stress riser right there and failure is predicted. By wrapping the tower around the bottom of the frame, the stress riser is eliminated:








    Next up, time for the fuel tank inspection, which I expected to go pretty poorly. I haven't taken the tank out in the roughly 3 years it has existed. The drain holes were plugged up by foam sheet (design flaw), and it was basically sitting in a swamp for 3 years.

    Indeed, I found that the POR-15 had failed on the tank, and there was some rust getting into the metal.



    No leaks yet, but I always sort of wanted to make an aluminum tank instead, so took it as an opportunity. Figured it'd be a fair bit of work to try to re-coat the tank, so just moved it to the scrap bin.








    This time I left some drain channels in the foam sheet, so hopefully it won't be submerged in water for its life. In theory wouldn't much matter, but I think when it's that bad even Aluminum is susceptible to corrosion failure.



    Made it out of 5052 sheet with 4043 filler, which Facebook tells me will eventually crack for fuel-tank duty even though it is compatible filler, so we'll see how long it lasts. Maybe I get to do it all again some day with 5356.

    Here's the home made bender I used.



    Which seemed to stand no chance of bending a 1/8" thick 39" wide sheet of aluminum. Messed around with different ideas for a while then came up with the trick that makes it bend. Throw a little 1/4" chunk of shim between the bender and the sheet, and slide it back and forth as you're pulling on the bender. This makes it only actually locally bend one location at a time, and after a few minutes you can work it all the way up to a 90 degree bend. Plus it cancels out the bowing of the bend from using a crappy home made bender that isn't very rigid, just do a few extra passes with the shim in the middle of the sheet.




    As it has been in a perpetual state for the last 2 years, the Jeep is very, very close to just being "done".

    #2
    Glad to see you here.

    A doubler between the shock tower and the frame would have spread out the stresses also. I have zero faith in just about anything welded directly to the factory frame.

    How many gallons is the new tank?

    Did you finish the 4 link in the rear?
    Kevin

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gt1guy View Post
      How many gallons is the new tank?

      Did you finish the 4 link in the rear?
      It's about 20 gallons of actual volume, took 17 gallons until the pump shut off from completely empty. Definitely wish I had a bit more, but I carry 4 gallons of extra fuel and haven't had a real problem yet (definitely come close though).

      Yes, the 4-link works great now with reduced triangulation in the lowers and a roughly -3 deg RAA. Haven't gotten very good pictures of it as it's very hard to photo sitting on the ground, I'll have it on a lift some day in the next few weeks probably.

      Comment


        #4
        Snaked my exhaust further back to dump behind the axle pointing back below the fuel tank. Surprisingly it barely made it quieter versus just dumping under the drivers seat. Just a tiny bit, but I'll take anything I can get. I was expecting a night and day improvement by reducing tub resonance, but I guess not. Maybe I'll try to throw some baffles into the inside of this pipe section.

        Now supercharger whine is driving me crazy on longer drives too... I hate loud vehicles.





        Comment


          #5
          Did it make any difference in smelling exhaust, or was that never a problem?
          Kevin

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by gt1guy View Post
            Did it make any difference in smelling exhaust, or was that never a problem?
            Never smelled any exhaust even slightly at any point, even sticking my head out the window on the trail, so no change on that.

            Comment


              #7
              Nice lookin' pipe work for damned sure sir.

              Originally posted by christensent View Post
              Never smelled any exhaust even slightly at any point, even sticking my head out the window on the trail, so no change on that.
              Strange. Mine was killin' me 'till we took it to the back bumper.

              I ain't drunk ... I'm just drinkin'.

              Comment


                #8
                Have not been good about updating this thread... Here's the last 6 months.

                Finally got 37's! So much more capable off-road and looks much better. I went from 35" load range C MTR"s to 37" load range D, the only thing I really hate about the D tires is hitting potholes is super harsh even aired down whereas the load range C tires absorbed potholes no problem if aired down. Other than potholes when aired down, I have no complaints about going to the D tire. They still air down real well at 1-2PSI for deep snow wheeling, they work better than the 35's did in snow. Sure wish there were good C 37's, but there just aren't so I'll live with this.

                IMG_20200907_105700

                Then my warranty replacement Sprintex supercharger (3rd one now) failed in the same way the 2nd one did. The press in bearing-support pin on the rear cover lost press fit, spun, wollowed out the hole, and allowed the rotor to contact the case. This seems to be a design flaw of the product, I heard of someone else who's also on their third replacement supercharger with identical failures.

                The two Sprintex units with the identical failure, press fit failure on the rear pin:
                IMG_20201010_175250

                My solution was to weld studs onto the back of the pins and put nuts onto the rear side of the studs to hold the press fit in place. So far, no problems, I suspect this should solve that issue for good.

                IMG_20201011_123128

                IMG_20201011_142033


                I raised my track bar axle end up above even my notched frame by moving it outboard of the frame rail, and using an offset rod end. This was to correct a geometry issue between track bar and drag link that was giving me nasty roll-steer induced by the drag link/track bar geometry. Would cause it to go into steering oscillations sometimes on the highway when hitting a bump. I notched the frame to clear a 3" raised bracket, but I actually needed about 4" because I have so much caster after cut-and-rotate on the C's that it raised the drag link yet another inch.

                Now, it steers perfect 80MPH+ on bumps or sudden swerves.

                IMG_20201125_114025

                IMG_20201125_162849

                IMG_20201125_162840


                Then last week, I raised my rear upper frame mounts to decrease my anti-squat. I was previously at 95% anti-squat, way too high for the driving I do. I raised the frame side 2-3/8" from where it was before dropping me to 62% anti-squat with 7" of frame side separation, and an instant-center near the front axle. Had to push the rod ends up through the floor. It is such a great improvement, went out to the desert yesterday and it is so much more fun to drive with some rear squat.

                IMG_20201229_225440

                IMG_20201226_210141

                IMG_20201226_181726

                IMG_20201226_164437

                IMG_20201228_210352

                IMG_20201229_225511

                Comment

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