DieselDoris 1947 CJ2a from Sweden

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    DieselDoris 1947 CJ2a from Sweden

    I have copied all my posts from my build tread on Pirate, so I can continue here.

    The original tread are here https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/di...weden.1800282/

    Hi, since you asked for more info here it is.

    I can say that this is not the typical us Willys build, mostly parts from european cars and some parts from asian cars

    My Willys when I bought it in May 2012.

    It's a Willys CJ2a from 1947.
    The car were 99% rustfree when i bought it, the previous owner had replaced the whole floor and the rear wheelwells.
    Standard CJ2a frame with standard leafsprings front and rear.
    Engine, gearbox, transfercase and axles are from a Volvo Laplander
    The axles are Dana 44 with 5,38 gears, rear diff welded and front ARB locker.
    Power steering from Volvo 164
    Steel wheels 10*15 with almost new Super Swamper TSL-sx 31*13,5-15
    Seats from Volvo C303
    Warn M8000 winsch.

    My first mod was to replace the seats with some highback black leader seats.

    A built a 6 point cage. The Willys looks so cute and tiny with the windshield folded

    Then i wheeled it alot

    Old meets new

    Upgraded the winch to a Warn 8274

    More info and pics will come.
    Last edited by pigge; 06-10-2020, 05:18 PM.

    Next issue were the old drumbrakes.

    I have converted to discbrakes all around, here are the specs/parts

    There were already a mastercylinder and vaccumservo from SAAB 9-3 ver2 installed when i bought it.

    Front brakes:
    Disc: Suzuki Samurai 1,9TD
    Calliper: Nissan Micra K11 front callipers.

    Rear brakes:
    Disc: Suzuki Samurai 1,9TD
    Calliper: BMW 530 (E39) rear callipers

    This combo workes great it looks up the rear wheels just before the front wheels.
    I have parkingbrake on the propshaft so no cables to the rearwheels

    My oldest son drives the Willys.

    After the brakes were done it was time for beadlocks.

    Hade a friend to cut the rings.

    New rims

    Welded the parts togheter

    Ready welded and waiting to get painted

    Painted and tire mounted

    Just love wheeling it


      n october 2013 I made my first competition as driver with my own car in Swedish Offroad Challenge.

      Hade to put an aluminium or steel top on the cage according to the rules to have the car to pass raceinspection.
      The rules say 3mm aluminium, 2mm steel if bolted or 1 mm steel if welded.
      I chosed 1 mm steel because thats the lightest.

      I started with a sheet with the front folded double.

      Since my cage are curved in two directions i hade to cut out some pieces and weld it together again.

      The finished top. I left the double folded edge form a lipp that covers the gap between the cage and the windshield so all the water will not flow down in to the seats etc.

      Race ready

      Some pics from the race.

      We finished in 3 place in our class out of 7 that started in the class.


        Skip44 said:
        You said that was your first competition, coming out third your first time out must have made you feel wonderful. So do you plan on competing a lot more or just occasionally?


        I were very happy with the third place.
        It was my first competition as driver of my own car but I have competed with a friend for three years as his co-driver. It definitely adds alot more to the competion when you drive your own car instead of just beeing a co-driver.

        The comps are a marked trail/circuit that have to be driven, along the trail there is different checkpoints for extra points, all checkpoints are voluntary, depending on the difficulty of the checkpoint they will bee scored accordingly.
        To have the scores of the checkpoints we usually have to take a photo/photos with a part of the car visibly on the photo.
        The trail/circuit is between 2 and 13 km long normally there is 10-50 checkpoints on one lap. Racetime between 8 and 24 hours.

        The team that collects most points under the racetime is the winner.

        At this comp the driver or co-driver had to touch the car and the sign on the picture. The car belongs to a friend of mine.


          I had ordered new tires in September but of course they where the out of stock so I had to wait for them.

          I started my the biggest project on a car I ever have tried any way.
          I have no real experience in sheet metalwork but I though why not learn something new.

          Started with a good over all clean up

          Started to take it appart piece by piece. labeled all wiring and put all the bolts in labeled ziplock bags. It saved me alot of time in the end.

          Here have I made the raise of the first fender. I have raised it 50mm. The grill moved approximately 30mm forward

          Both fenders raised.

          Here are pics of how I sorted the cut out for the grill. I had no problems clearing the headlights.

          Miesers thread have been very helpful,thanks for the step by step instructions.


            I have had christmas two times this winter
            My new tires arrived to my dealer in Sweden in mid Januari, I were like a child on christmas morning before I had a chance to pick them up. When I got them they were only five weeks old from the production date.

            Not that big differens

            Here is the axle in stock location, I need to move the axle approximatly 2 inches to the rear and cut a little bigger arch.

            This how much I will raise and widening the arch. On this picture the front axle is moved 1,5 inch forward to it's final position


              I cut the wheel arc with a jigsaw with a metal blade it was very easy but the rest of the cutting and measuring wasn't that easy.

              Ops it became a big hole....

              I ordered new inner fenders from a local metalshop.

              I welded the pieces together al the way around, so there are no sharp edge that can cut my tires.


                It was a very long time since I updated here. Have a little to much to do on work.

                After I welded the inside of the tub it was time to lift of the tub and flip it over to weld the underside.

                After that I painted the tube and the frame.

                On the rear kick up you can see the mounting plate for my rearwinch.

                I have made boxes that my rear points of the cage is mounted on. in the middle of the box there is a plate standing to support the cage.


                  Here are we in the final stages of assambly the car.

                  I've got help from to friends.

                  Finally it starts to look like a car again.

                  Both the last pictures are taken the same day. One in the morrning and one in the evening.
                  We are on the way to a meeting/just for fun comp with friends


                    Some pics from the first testdrive after modification.

                    Problems with the bumper hitting everything first is almost gone

                    On the trailer home.

                    Everything worked very well exept that i have to move the rear axle 7mm to the rear on driverside. it's not centered in the wheel well.



                      Just some poser shots in the backyard.



                        I have made a skidplate in 3 mm steel with some reinforcement on the inside.

                        And mounted on the Willys



                          Some random pics from the summer.

                          Standard poser shoot

                          Standard versus mine


                            Mieser said:
                            How do you like the gearing with the M40 based 4spd transmission? Does the Laplander use a lower geared version than the car?

                            Nice job on the build. All you need to do now is lower the seats, cage, and windshield and you could be as short as a stock one
                            The gearing works very well with tires up to 35" If I need some speed I have to use 2:nd or 3:rd gear when offroading

                            Diffrences on the Laplander version and the car one is that the output shaft have bigger splince compared to the car version. Gearing is the same.

                            My gearing are as follows.

                            1:an: 3,13:1
                            2:an: 1,99:1
                            3:an: 1,36:1
                            4:an: 1:1
                            Reverse: 3,25:1

                            High 1.36:1
                            Low 3.25:1




                              I got tired of hitting the nut on my u-bolt for the axle all the time so I eliminated them. This is how I did it.

                              This solution gave me approximately 20 mm of more clearance under the leaf springs

                              I have also cut my hood to fit the high-line fenders. Since I had the Willys stamp in my hood I hade to save it. It wasn't an option to remove it.

                              I have kept the original bend on the lower edge so there is no sharp edge.
                              Under coming winter I will stretch the hood roughly an inch.