Mall Crawler rehab - JKU one ton swap

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    Mall Crawler rehab - JKU one ton swap

    I picked up a decent mall crawler JKU, 3.5" RE lift, adjustable upper control arms, shocks, dual steering stabilizer, sway bar QD's, front bumper, 10k winch, rear bumper w carrier, sliders, 17" wheels and 35's. When I went to pick it up I asked how he liked the sway bar QD's. "Oh I don't know if this has ever been in 4x4 other than snow." open diffs and 3.21's

    Replaced the trimmed plastic fenders with some cheap amazon metal flares, 111k miles when purchased, did ball joints and steering components. Wheeled it hard since I bought it last year. All over Arkansas, Oklahoma, New Mexico and Colorado. The D30 isn't doing so hot, lol. C's are bent and axle is as well, also leaking. Not putting any money into the D30/44 set. Grabbed a 2008 Super Duty D60 front and an 03, 14 bolt rear, all brake calipers and rotors, steering components, ect come with them. Managed to score front and rear with 4.10 gears. I'm going to do the Barnes trusses and weld on high steer. Going to spool the front, Warn hubs, J8 brake booster and master. Going to do heim joint 1.5" DOM steering components. Not doing gears or lockers until OX gets their 14 bolt on the market and I have the 40's and long arm stuff ready next year (debating on 3 link front and rear or 4 front and 3 rear, open to suggestions.) Full float axles with 4.10's and front locker is 1,054,569 times better than wheeling on D30/44 set with open 3.21's

    Drive shafts I'll use Adams or Woods, not sure yet, other than that going to do it as "budget" friendly as possible (Yes I know D60 swaps aren't budget anything, this is not my first D60 swap, done TJ's and XJ's both.) Also looking at the DIY stuff. I have access to a machine shop thankfully, that should keep it all a little cheaper.

    Black Bear passfrog bayou

    #2
    First Mod should be remove that Angry Grill

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      #3
      Originally posted by Cod View Post
      First Mod should be remove that Angry Grill
      Function before form. It is ugly AF though. I'm not a fan at all but new grill and paint is $ that could go to axles and parts. Plus I'm going to beat the hell out of it so I'm sure it will have to be replaced someday. lol.

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        #4
        looks like a great starting point. I have a new set of lunchbox lockers for those axles for sale. they are already installed in carriers if your interested. i removed them because i bought ARBs

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          #5
          Click image for larger version
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ID:	271437 Click image for larger version
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ID:	271438 I guess it has officially started now.

          Last edited by TrailCrush'r; 2 days ago.

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            #6
            Edit your post... press large on your pictures!!!

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              #7
              Originally posted by Gregj50!!!!! View Post
              Edit your post... press large on your pictures!!!
              I think I got it done right.

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                #8
                There is a lot of shit in the way for a good long arm set up on a JK. Keeping the factory fuel tank? A front 3 link is easy but you don't gain much on a front long arm as you cant get decent separation at the frame unless you hang the lower below the frame. Outboard the coil overs or struts on the rear for simplicity. Plan on getting rid of the rear under floor cargo area and a couple cross members. Delete the rear bumper and trim the frame rails. All that work and you are going to wheel 4.10 gears and 40's with a 2.73? If you are doing a budget build don't even bother with long arms, not going to see much gain there.
                Rock Krawler sucks!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by thedirtman View Post
                  There is a lot of shit in the way for a good long arm set up on a JK. Keeping the factory fuel tank? A front 3 link is easy but you don't gain much on a front long arm as you cant get decent separation at the frame unless you hang the lower below the frame. Outboard the coil overs or struts on the rear for simplicity. Plan on getting rid of the rear under floor cargo area and a couple cross members. Delete the rear bumper and trim the frame rails. All that work and you are going to wheel 4.10 gears and 40's with a 2.73? If you are doing a budget build don't even bother with long arms, not going to see much gain there.
                  I'm not going to run 40's on 4.10 gears. I'm on 35's and staying 35's for now, and like it says currently open diffs and 3.21 gears so 4.10 and front locker is a large improvement. Plan was originally to build these axles complete and do the LS/4l60/Atlas swap and do all of it together. Unfortunately, after getting in the crash the front axle is too bad to leave any longer, it was already bad from wheeling hard on 35's, but cant keep it on the road real well in current form. Instead of replacing a D30 these are going under there with 4.10's and locker in front to replace the D30. I cant sit with the rig down for a year or two while I build out my dream setup. When I do get the engine, trans, transfer case ready to swap I'm going to re-gear, add rear locker and any suspension upgrades, then jump to 40's. As far as the suspension, again, all of that is for next year. That's why I'm looking for advice on it now so I can plan the setup. Don't know exactly what I want to run when its all done, Ill see how it does on factory link points and make improvements from there.

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                    #10
                    I am doing the same swap but using Artec swap kits. I am not doing long arms and I am using RockJock arms. The front lowers worked better installed backwards since the lower axle brackets are farther apart than stock.

                    I am trying to use front geometry correction frame brackets for better street manners. The yoke hits the upper link when I stuff the suspension. I drilled some upper arm mounting holes higher on the bracket and it helped but did not eliminate the problem.

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                      #11
                      I find most relocation brackets over compensate on the upper links. I would rather move the axle lower mount up higher on the axle tube for the same correction results plus you get better clearance under the axle and arms.
                      Rock Krawler sucks!

                      Comment

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