Blue Jeep build

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    Blue Jeep build

    Alright, I'm trying to move my build thread over here from JKO.

    Probably a 100% chance this will go terribly wrong for a while


    Edit:
    Weeeeeell, it seems there are a ton of pics missing in the thread on JKO. I'm up to page 16 over there and all the pics are gone. I know they were there before the VS new update.


    Edit again:
    It seems all the pics are gone up to page 18. Which the first post with pictures is dated May 11 2018..............almost exactly two years to the day of the new "update".
    I am now fully wrapped in tinfoil..............no mask cause ain't skeered of virus.


    Again with the edit:

    Half way done with the transfer. Need to take a shit.
    Last edited by gt1guy; 05-21-2020, 10:29 PM.
    Kevin

    #2
    I had saved a pdf of the build thread, but no idea of how to get it to post "opened" and not as a file.


    Build thread 1.pdf


    Attached Files
    Last edited by gt1guy; 05-20-2020, 01:56 PM.
    Kevin

    Comment


      #3
      VS strikes again..... Suprise, suprise. NOT!

      Glad to see you posting the build here, it was just wasting away over at JKO. Waaaay to much building and not nearly enough bolt on to keep that crowds attention.

      Comment


        #4
        Ya, it almost seemed like it was just me and Exwrench talking to each other at times.

        Kevin

        Comment


          #5
          And Dirtman telling everybody "Its going to cost 10K minimum to run 37's".

          Comment


            #6
            I'll be honest, I've been following your thread over their for years. I just never had anything to add to it really.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by gt1guy View Post
              Edit again:
              It seems all the pics are gone up to page 18. Which the first post with pictures is dated May 11 2018..............almost exactly two years to the day of the new "update".
              What the FUCK!

              It's like they're trying to see how much bullshit the livestock will endure.

              I canceled my JKO & PBB renewals today, and this reinforces my resolve.


              Hang on - I'mma' test somethin':


              <TEST WORKED - Cutting out gt1guy's content to de-clutter thread.>


              OK - YES! DOOD! Your PDF has selectable text and the photo links work.

              I don't know of an easy / quick way, but at least there's a way.
              Last edited by ExWrench; 05-21-2020, 01:00 AM. Reason: De-cluttering thread by removing content test post

              PLEASE BUY AMERICAN SO WE DON'T HAVE TO LEARN CHINESE
              The 4th little pig made his house of reinforced concrete, with wolfskin rugs in every room

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by ExWrench View Post

                What the FUCK!

                It's like they're trying to see how much bullshit the livestock will endure.

                I canceled my JKO & PBB renewals today, and this reinforces my resolve.


                Hang on - I'mma' test somethin':



                OK - YES! DOOD! Your PDF has selectable text and the photo links work.

                I don't know of an easy / quick way, but at least there's a way.


                You said you were stupid, what the fuckYou lied.

                I'll try to figure out what this selectable text is you speak of and see if I can do anything. I know for a fact I'm stupid when it comes to this shit.

                I have 8 PDF files that are 40+ pages each, this shouldn't take any time at all.
                Kevin

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by gt1guy View Post



                  You said you were stupid, what the fuckYou lied.

                  I'll try to figure out what this selectable text is you speak of and see if I can do anything. I know for a fact I'm stupid when it comes to this shit.

                  I have 8 PDF files that are 40+ pages each, this shouldn't take any time at all.
                  Promise I wasn't sandbagging you, I was totally surprised when that worked ​​

                  I opened your PDF, copied a bunch of text with the photo links, and pasted here.

                  I wouldn't try it on a phone, but seems doable on a magic internet light-show box.

                  I hope you figure out a way to make this easy (before I try to copy my thread )

                  PLEASE BUY AMERICAN SO WE DON'T HAVE TO LEARN CHINESE
                  The 4th little pig made his house of reinforced concrete, with wolfskin rugs in every room

                  Comment


                    #10
                    gt1guy 07-20-2017 02:51 PM

                    Blue jeep build

                    I guess it’s time to start a build thread, since I went and tore the Jeep apart. I’ve been collecting parts for this build for the past few years, so I probably have
                    at least 80% of what I need to complete it. The big ticket items I have and should keep me busy for a while. The rest is mostly stuff I need to get the build rolling along to figure out. Drive shaft lengths, axle lengths, brake lines, fuel lines, exhaust, etc.
                    I’ve also never named a vehicle, hell, my old dogs name was Dog, so we’ll just call it the blue jeep build.

                    Anyway, the plan, here’s what I want to do. Starting with a 2010 JKU Sport with 26k on the clock.

                    LS conversion with a LS3/525 – , RPM Extreme kit
                    6l90 w/2800 stall converter, Winters shifter (hits all 7 detents in the trans), Twist Machine paddle shifter
                    Hero 3 speed transfer case 2.78/4.33 , VSS in tail shaft housing
                    Rear axle-72.875” wms/wms, JRat 3rd , RuffStuff housing, 40spline ARB, D70 5.13 gears, Solid 40 spline spindles and hubs, 13”Wilwood rotors/ Aero6 calipers,
                    coilover/bypass mts.
                    Front axle- 73.25”wms/wms. JRat 3rd , RuffStuff housing, 40spline ARB, D70 5.13 gears, Crane C’s and knuckles, Solid 40spline spindles and hubs, 14”
                    Wilwood rotors/Aero6 calipers, coilover/bypass mts
                    Trail Ready HD17RC wheels and 45x14.50TSL/SXII’s
                    Hydroboost w/1 5/16th master cylinder
                    Howe Full hydro steering
                    32gal Fuel Safe cell sunk down into floor behind axle
                    Full cage, through dash, incorporating the seat mounts and upper mounts for the CO/bypass F&R
                    PRP- Podium Elite seats, 42” matching Bench seat, Schroth Harnesses
                    F&R double triangulated 4-links (rear is easy, front is going to take some work……………a lot of work), minimum 6” up travel (I want more if I can move enough
                    stuff around), ~3.5” lift
                    Other misc stuff to include:
                    Line lock for the parking brake.
                    No wheel speed sensors, will use a Dakota Digital signal conditioner off the rear output VSS of the transfer case to feed the speedo signal.
                    ABS shit removed. I believe the brain box has to stay but the pump and all the extra lines can go.
                    EVAP shit removed.
                    Cruise control will be done through a remote mounted Rostra switch, due to the clock spring issue with full hydro steering.



                    I ended up tearing the Jeep apart because of how far I had to dig trying to figure out the front suspension. That doesn’t even make sense does it? Well, it’s
                    complicated.
                    All the extra length of the LS compared to the 3.8 is to the front. Bellhousings are basically in the same spot. I already knew I was going to have to stretch the
                    front a few inches to get the upper links around the balancer, then the radiator gets in the way. Can’t stretch it a few more inches to get out in front of the
                    radiator because the links will still hit the radiator and I want to minimize the amount of stretching on a 4dr. Only other thing that can technically move is the
                    balancer, but the firewall is in the way. Firewall’s move real easy when you cut them though. I need to see the firewall without the stock engine in the way. Also,
                    I’m not quite ready to rip out the entire HVAC unit from the Jeep, so I need to see what’s going on on the inside between the HVAC unit and the firewall. So out
                    came the engine and the dash, so I could look around. This also ties into the roll cage because I need to modify the subframe for the dash for the A-pillar bars.
                    Starting to pull dash

                    What is this white gizmo that runs directly to a little box on the key switch? Doesn't say anything on it. Does it have to stay?

                    Marking for the A-pillar tube (2"x .120"). Should leave the vent ducts untouched.


                    This give an idea of where the A-pillar is going. The leg going up to the windshield will be straight. No funky bends where you don't want them.

                    Dash out and cut for the A-pillar bar.

                    Here's one of many "awe fuck" moments. If I cut out what I marked, I'll also lose the firewall mount part too. Plan is to add a small bracket to the cage bar that
                    bolts to the dash subframe. Not the end of the world, but I never noticed it till after the other side was cut. Other side doesn't have this issue.

                    Everything out of the way on the inside.





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                    ChuckTheRipper 07-20-2017 03:42 PM
                    About time you start a thread. That's one crazy parts list. I'm mighty jelly. Your pictures aren't showing up, for me at least.



                    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



                    gt1guy 07-20-2017 03:48 PM

                    Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4273930)
                    About time you start a thread. That's one crazy parts list. I'm mighty jelly. Your pictures aren't showing up, for me at least.



                    Really? No pics. I just started using postimage.org for the hosting cause photobucket fucked everyone.
                    Not sure what I'm doing wrong.
                    Does this pic work?



                    I'll wait to post anything else until I get this picture thing figured out.


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                    christensent 07-20-2017 06:57 PM
                    Pics work for me... might be an issue of being on a phone, I can't see most pictures posted on this forum on my phone


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                    ChuckTheRipper 07-20-2017 10:23 PM
                    Well fuck. I've never had a problem seeing pictures through Tapatalk.
                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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                    gt1guy 07-20-2017 11:20 PM



                    Originally Posted by christensent (Post 4273994)
                    Pics work for me... might be an issue of being on a phone, I can't see most pictures posted on this forum on my phone


                    Ok, cool. I'll keep rolling then.



                    Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper (Post 4274081)
                    Well fuck. I've never had a problem seeing pictures through Tapatalk.
                    Can you see the pic in post #4? That one I used the "Thumbnail for forums" address. All the others I used the "Hotlink for forums" address.
                    I have no clue what the difference is. I'm a computer tard.


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                    gt1guy 07-21-2017 01:05 AM


                    Here's where all the interference problems come from for moving the firewall back anything more than a inch and wanting to keep the HVAC unit intact.

                    And this is actually where the problem is circled in red. This is what follows the angled section of the firewall, from the passenger foot well to the sunk in (deep
                    part) in the center of the fire wall, when the ac lines and heater hoses enter.
                    At first I thought I could just hit it with a heat gun and slowly work it in. But I soon realized I would absolutely fuck that up and destroy the whole thing. It
                    needs to move ~3" or so. No way that's happening with heat.

                    Better shot that shows the angle it runs at.




                    So I stripped of all the duct work and the big valve thing that switches from fresh air to re-circulation so I could reinstall it and actually see/feel what I'm
                    dealing with as far as room.
                    No way to get good pics of what it looked like, but there is about 1.5" of room at the tightest spot. Still need more room.
                    So next up was the possibility of moving the entire dash back. That turns out to be really easy. I can move the bottom mounts for dash on the trans tunnel
                    back 2” and the top dash mounts back an inch or so to get the room I need down by the blower/duct for the HVAC unit. Will have to make new foam seals
                    between the ac lines/heater hoses at the firewall and also the seal between the fresh air intake to the blower. But I'm getting a solid 3.5" or more of clearance.
                    It was still hard to get pics but I just stuck the camera in a fired away.
                    http://<a href="https://postimage.cc...z/DSC06500.jpg[/IMG]


                    Here's the mount at the trans tunnel. Just have to move the bracket.

                    Here's the top mount at the wind shield. There are two of these. I'll just extend the tabs holding the studs. I really don't think there will be much of a gap
                    between the dash cover and the weather stripping. If there is one, a strip of closed cell foam should fill it.

                    This is how the ac lines and heater hoses end up. If I really want to get fancy, I could move that section of the fire wall back to make it stock looking again.

                    Kevin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So, the dash comes back out again. Still need to cut the passenger side of the subframe for the cage A-pillar. I now have a good feeling about the firewall mods
                      though.
                      How stupid would I be if I don't replace the heater core while everything is apart? Jeep only has 28k on it.
                      gt1guy 07-21-2017 02:49 AM
                      So now knowing I can get the HVAC shit out of the way. it's time to slap a real engine in and start the process again of seeing what I'm dealing with.
                      So the gutless piece of shit with only 28k on the clock came out. If the engine in my lawn mower ever dies, the 3.8 might get a new home.

                      Even before I tacked the engine mounts in, I could tell they weren't going to work with the suspension I want to do. This pic is with the stock D30 and UCA. The
                      new axle, with a truss and the triangulated upper link mount on top of that is much taller. 10" from tube C/L to center of link joint to be exact.



                      The CTS-V front drive isn't going to work either. More on that later.
                      With the RPM mounts just tacked in, I tossed the engine/trans in it. Didn’t even bother to install the torque converter, because it’s all coming back out again.
                      This is just information gathering work. Sure looks good though.

                      After setting the engine down in the mounts I shimmed up the back of the trans until it was right up to the tunnel. Not touching it, but damn close. This was for
                      two reasons. One was checking for pulling off a flat belly. The other was that raising the back on the trans actually pushes the heads farther away from the
                      firewall. Flip side is it lowers the harmonic balancer a bit. Not much, but that's the direction it goes.
                      Top of the straight edge is touching the bottom of both frame rails. That's at least 6" between the top of the straightedge and where the trans mount bolts up.

                      Front side of the trans pan. Inch or so of clearance.

                      Engine to firewall.




                      Top of the bellhousing will get close when the engine is moved back.

                      So it looks like I have plenty of room to move the drivetrain back 4" or so without getting into the HVAC crap. Another thing that will help is that this was done
                      with mounts that shift the engine/trans over to the passenger side a inch and a quarter, just like stock. I won't have a steering box or brake booster in the way,
                      so I"ll center it with the new engine mounts. I will gain room by shifting everything due to the shape of the firewall.




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                      Dkjeep 07-21-2017 05:24 AM

                      Ho lee shit.... lots of work ahead
                      You aren't worried about room in the cab moving the firewall and dash back 3" ?



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                      gt1guy 07-21-2017 02:45 PM

                      Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4274130)
                      Ho lee shit.... lots of work ahead
                      You aren't worried about room in the cab moving the firewall and dash back 3" ?


                      I've given it a lot of thought and I can't see it creating any real problems. It's really just angling it, more than it's moving straight back.
                      Where I'm thinking of "adjusting" the firewall won't really effect where your feet go. It will all be above that. If I have to raise where the trans tunnel meets the
                      firewall, that's all behind the center of the dash.
                      The bottom center of the dash get the biggest move and that's directly over the trans tunnel. If I was keeping the stock center console, I'm pretty sure there'd
                      be interference. I already know I can't reuse the stock console. The Hero3 runs triple sticks and the Winters shifter takes up quite a bit of room. So I already
                      knew I'm going to have to do something different for a console.
                      Where the steering column meets the firewall, the bearing that bolts to the firewall rides on what looks like a nylon (it's probably plastic) sleeve. It seems to
                      have quite a bit of fore and aft movement. I really don't think the steering wheel will end up moving much. It also tilts, so there's that.
                      Only thing I'm wondering about is the brake peddle. But that can be cut and welded in any position I want. I have short legs, so if the brake peddle gets a little
                      closer, I welcome it.
                      I'll put the column back in for a test fit with the dash where I want it. Probably should stick the stock seat in too. Just to be sure.


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                      Keith B. 07-21-2017 03:14 PM

                      This sounds awesome. Cant wait to see it progress.



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                      CrazyLarry 07-21-2017 05:55 PM

                      Intense build man good for you have fun with it


                      gt1guy 07-23-2017 02:26 PM
                      I don't even know how long I stood there and starred at the marked up firewall, wondering if I really wanted to go down this road, or if I was going to screw it
                      up.

                      And then this happened.






                      After deciding that the area at the top of the trans tunnel was going to give me grief when the engine slid back, I cut out a slot a couple inches up and back,
                      removing the radius where it meets the firewall. That turned out to be a smart move.



                      Kevin

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by ExWrench View Post
                        Promise I wasn't sandbagging you, I was totally surprised when that worked ​​

                        I opened your PDF, copied a bunch of text with the photo links, and pasted here.

                        I wouldn't try it on a phone, but seems doable on a magic internet light-show box.

                        I hope you figure out a way to make this easy (before I try to copy my thread )
                        I was just fucking with ya.


                        I'm just copying and pasting everything. It's not going very fast at all. I'm 1/3 of the way through the first of 8 files. Just looking at where the build is in what I've posted...................I have a long ways to go.............................Hell, I haven't even blown off the whole factory dash idea yet.

                        I'm also going to have to relive the first attempt at the firewall................................not looking forward to that very much. It's like a trip down memory lane right now.


                        I did find out that there is some kind of limit on how big a post can be. I pasted a bunch of shit and when I hit post, it said there was a 10000 (unit?) limit and my post was 28598 (whatevers).
                        Kevin

                        Comment


                          #13
                          gt1guy 07-23-2017 03:12 PM
                          Next up was dealing with the engine mounts. I want to get the drivetrain centered in the chassis. There is more room behind the firewall on the drivers side
                          than the passenger side, plus there isn't going to be a steering box or other interference in the engine compartment.
                          My measurements said the engine was shifted to passenger 1.25" when I installed it the way it should be.
                          Untouched mounts.

                          Solution....remove 5/8ths from the drivers side and add 5/8ths to the passenger side engine mounts. (ya, I know)






                          I know what you're thinking and you're right. That right there is a big fuck up. Why I cut that 1.25" number in half, I have no idea. But I did and I never caught
                          it until after I had the engine back in. Only saving grace is that they're still only temporary.
                          You'll also notice that the top ears are sitting up off the frame. That's because the frame is falling away from where the new location is. Mounts were moved
                          back 4". They are sitting at the same height as they were in the original location. The frame is also getting wider at that point, so there was a big gap at the
                          back of the mounts.


                          gt1guy 07-23-2017 03:26 PM



                          New engine location.









                          Kevin

                          Comment


                            #14

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                            Dkjeep 07-23-2017 03:42 PM

                            I don't even have words for how far you have dove off into this one. Can you access the rear spark plug on the passenger side with it tucked that far back in
                            there?
                            Also don't get the clearances too tight around any portion of the engine or trans. It moves around quite a bit with the idle that it has.
                            Did you touch on why you had to abandon the accessory drive and whos drive is that?


                            ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


                            gt1guy 07-23-2017 11:43 PM



                            Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4274978)
                            I don't even have words for how far you have dove off into this one. Can you access the rear spark plug on the passenger side with it tucked that far
                            back in there?
                            Also don't get the clearances too tight around any portion of the engine or trans. It moves around quite a bit with the idle that it has.
                            Did you touch on why you had to abandon the accessory drive and whos drive is that?


                            I can't see there being a problem with access to the plug. The room I'll need to make for headers should cover the plug access pretty well. Also, I want to make
                            part of the new firewall panels removable for access to the upper bellhousing bolts. There would be no way to get to them otherwise. So, worst case on the
                            plugs, I could also have an access panel to get at them from the inside.


                            I tried to install the Sanderson headers, passenger side came closer to fitting than the drivers side. But, to run them, it will take a lot more cutting into the
                            footwell than I want to do. I think I'll sell the Sandersons and pick up something that has the collector farther forward/lower and also the rear primary going
                            forward. I have a feeling I'll find something made for a Vette that fits the bill. I think they basically have the same situation of engine/firewall.


                            Something like this. Hooker Blackheart shorty for a C6
                            https://rspimages.holley.com/70301303rhkr.jpg?width=583


                            I hear ya on the clearances. There is still a bunch of fine tuning I need to do on what was cut. I cut the bare minimum just to stuff it in there. I know I need to
                            remove more of the trans tunnel, there's a spot just behind where I cut it that is making contact with the trans.
                            As far as the accessory drive goes ( I can already feel the headache returning). The low mount AC and the alternator were going to be completely in the way of
                            the upper links. The RPM engine mounts are in the way too. The AC and Alt are in the way because the upper links converge in the center and run close to the
                            balancer. The engine mounts are in the way because of the height of both the axle side and chassis side mounts for the uppers, combined with trying to pull
                            this off at 3.5" of lift. This is in no way a knock on the RPM mounts. As you know, they're a well made piece that fit perfect when you put them where they're
                            supposed to go.

                            The Vette offset drastically reduces your choices and options for where things get mounted.
                            I ended up going with the Goat Built Alt/Ps bracket. They had the narrowest setup that kept the bottom of the engine clear. They also happen to build the Ibex
                            buggy chassis's so you could say it was designed for the double triangulated 4-link. Had to switch to the F-Body spacing though, so new water pump and
                            balancer.

                            The AC comp bracket is for a LS1 from ICT billet. High and tight, that's why I got it. Runs the 7176 compressor. One of the few brackets for the F-Body offset I
                            found.

                            So ya, I've replaced every single piece from the CTS-V drive. I just hope I can use it when the time comes to LS my old Camaro.


                            ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------




                            Dkjeep 07-24-2017 07:04 AM

                            As you know I went to the 7176 for clearance issues on my ctsv drive and it makes nice cold air so no worries there.
                            On the other hand this appears to be over your head, you should take it to the nearest dealership to be completed, lol. :grin2:


                            -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



                            gt1guy 07-24-2017 12:02 PM


                            Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4275225)
                            As you know I went to the 7176 for clearance issues on my ctsv drive and it makes nice cold air so no worries there.
                            On the other hand this appears to be over your head, you should take it to the nearest dealership to be completed, lol. :grin2:

                            Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
                            Have you driven yours yet?



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                            Dkjeep 07-24-2017 12:19 PM


                            Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275345)
                            Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
                            Have you driven yours yet?

                            No, lol. I'm doing the rear end right now. I'm painting the rear axle as I had to disconnect everything anyways to add new control arms, track bar, and brakes.
                            (3 projects that weren't on the original punch list). I figured hell if its out anyways I might as well yank it out in the yard and freshen it up with some new paint.
                            I needed to replace the leaky pinion seal anyways.
                            Other than that, the front end is DONE. I just have to get the rear axle back in and final install the new tire carrier. I'm in no hurry with this heat. I get out
                            there and at least do one thing every day on it. Some days its not much but at least I'm going forward at all times.


                            -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



                            DOOKEY 07-24-2017 01:10 PM
                            In for the updates.


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                            gt1guy 07-25-2017 03:38 AM

                            -
                            Originally Posted by Dkjeep (Post 4275346)
                            No, lol. I'm doing the rear end right now. I'm painting the rear axle as I had to disconnect everything anyways to add new control arms, track bar, and
                            brakes. (3 projects that weren't on the original punch list). I figured hell if its out anyways I might as well yank it out in the yard and freshen it up with
                            some new paint. I needed to replace the leaky pinion seal anyways.
                            Other than that, the front end is DONE. I just have to get the rear axle back in and final install the new tire carrier. I'm in no hurry with this heat. I get
                            out there and at least do one thing every day on it. Some days its not much but at least I'm going forward at all times.


                            Better to do it all now, than not and wish you had.
                            It's been hot here too. Best piece of equipment I have in the shop is a 48" barrel fan. I fucking love that thing.


                            gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:04 AM
                            With the engine now sitting 4" back, I tossed the dash back in to evaluate the damage. To my surprise, it damn near went back to the stock location before it
                            started to make contact. Obviously can't run it that way, so the dash went back to it's new home location. Took a bunch of measurements so I'd have a good
                            idea of where everything is when working with the dash out. I know the dash will still be going in and out another million times before this part is completed.






                            gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:13 AM
                            The drain for the AC is the tightest spot there is.

                            gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:32 AM
                            Time to see if all this work was worth it. Installed the MK1/mod 0 calibrated PVC links.

                            This is actually very close to where the links will be. Notice they're touching the engine mounts. This is why I've said I can't use those mounts.

                            gt1guy 07-25-2017 04:47 AM
                            Went ahead and finished cutting the firewall now that the engine it where it's going to be.
                            Kevin

                            Comment


                              #15














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                              Treader 07-25-2017 06:30 AM
                              On the dash, why not just create a whole new unit? Maybe a little too utilitarian, but it would get the job done.


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                              B_rad 07-25-2017 08:51 AM
                              Amazing build, keep the pics and info coming!

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                              tapcola 07-25-2017 09:25 AM
                              I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?

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                              DOOKEY 07-25-2017 09:34 AM

                              Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
                              I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?
                              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


                              You shut your whore mouth. :thefinger:



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                              tapcola
                              07-25-2017 09:38 AM
                              Wow no reach around or lube ! 🤣


                              ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


                              Cod
                              07-25-2017 09:56 AM
                              Quote:
                              Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
                              I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A
                              using Tapatalk
                              AC / Heat / Radio etc. etc. lol

                              In for watching the fun, you haz balls!!!


                              ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                              gt1guy
                              07-25-2017 11:39 AM
                              Quote:
                              Originally Posted by Treader (Post 4275650)
                              On the dash, why not just create a whole new unit? Maybe a little too utilitarian, but it would get
                              the job done.

                              If, or maybe when, the electrical system goes completely berserk, I'll take that step. I just don't
                              want to jump on that grenade right now. The amount of wiring in these things makes me sick. The end
                              goal is the engine on stand alone, a simple dash and wired up like a hotrod. I just hope it doesn't
                              happen for a while.


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                              cjindna
                              07-25-2017 11:56 AM
                              Great daily driver build you've got going here
                              Certainly in for the results. What is your workspace situation (garage, shop, backyard tree, etc.)?


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                              gt1guy

                              Originally Posted by tapcola (Post 4275769)
                              I get it , but at this point would it be easier to biuld a buggy ?

                              Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.
                              This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice cage
                              and seats.
                              We'll have to see how that pans out.



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                              tapcola 07-25-2017 12:10 PM
                              :
                              Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275858)
                              Yes it would and by a large margin. But that's not what I want. I want the offspring of a buggy and a JKU.
                              This is my vision of what I want. 50' away it looks like a normal modded JK, underneath it looks like a buggy, inside it looks like a normal JK with a nice
                              cage and seats.
                              We'll have to see how that pans out

                              Looks cool man, definitely will be following.
                              Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk


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                              gt1guy 07-25-2017 10:02 PM

                              Originally Posted by cjindna (Post 4275857)
                              Great daily driver build you've got going here
                              Certainly in for the results. What is your workspace situation (garage, shop, backyard tree, etc.)?

                              The roads here in Louisiana suck. I'm doing all this just to get to the mall with my fillings intact. Plus, I should be able to cut over the curbs to get the good
                              parking spots.
                              Backyard shop is a 80'x50' metal building. 3 roll up doors. 2-20x14 and 1-12x12. 16' high walls. Walls and roof have 3" insulation, roll up doors have 2"
                              insulation. Nice when it's cold out, doesn't help much in the summer. Does a good job of cutting down the sound though.



                              cjindna 07-26-2017 05:51 AM
                              Great size shop you've got there. I'm always interested in the conditions in which DIY builds of this magnitude take place.
                              Good luck on the build!

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                              gt1guy 07-26-2017 12:44 PM

                              Originally Posted by cjindna (Post 4276186)
                              Great size shop you've got there. I'm always interested in the conditions in which DIY builds of this magnitude take place.
                              Good luck on the build!

                              If I had a lift, my DIY build conditions would be much improved. But for now I think I'm going to have to make a A-frame to get the body off.


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                              0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME 07-26-2017 07:49 PM

                              Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275345)
                              Jon will probably say that too when he sees what I did to his engine mounts.
                              Have you driven yours yet?
                              :surprise:
                              That's a ton of work. I may have missed it but why are you moving everything back so far?


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                              KOWBOY 07-27-2017 04:05 AM
                              Certainly an aggressive build ... good luck sir. Choosin' the JK platform will keep it challengin' to say the least.

                              Originally Posted by gt1guy (Post 4275850)
                              If, or maybe when, the electrical system goes completely berserk, I'll take that step. I just don't want to jump on that grenade right now. The amount of
                              wiring in these things makes me sick. The end goal is the engine on stand alone, a simple dash and wired up like a hotrod. I just hope it doesn't happen
                              for a while.

                              I was hopin' the same thang ... oh well. I'd recommend doin' it now while ya got it apart. No future in that stock shit. For what it's worth, I believe Bob's gonna
                              try to keep the Turd's dash and just swap out the gauges. Gonna get my stand alone computer from Hotworks down in Arkansas. They quoted 15 hun'erd bucks
                              for the fully-tunable computer and harness.
                              Any real world experience with that cruise control or just an internet find?

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                              0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME 07-27-2017 07:21 AM

                              Originally Posted by KOWBOY (Post 4276914)
                              Certainly an aggressive build ... good luck sir. Choosin' the JK platform will keep it challengin' to say the least.
                              I was hopin' the same thang ... oh well. I'd recommend doin' it now while ya got it apart. No future in that stock shit. For what it's worth, I believe Bob's
                              gonna try to keep the Turd's dash and just swap out the gauges. Gonna get my stand alone computer from Hotworks down in Arkansas. They quoted 15
                              hun'erd bucks for the fully-tunable computer and harness.
                              Any real world experience with that cruise control or just an internet find?

                              We built the cruise and TAP shift into the harness and its running thru the EZcanbus module. He doesn't have a factory steering wheel or clock spring so there
                              was no way to use the stock switches. That Rostra switch was modified to work with his setup... I believe they may have a system that piggybacks onto the
                              accelerator pedal if your looking for a stand alone cruise control unit.
                              FYI we offer a LS standalone harness for custom applications and hot rods

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                              gt1guy 07-27-2017 12:13 PM


                              Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME (Post 4276786)
                              :surprise:
                              That's a ton of work. I may have missed it but why are you moving everything back so far?

                              Engine moved back for room for the front suspension. I want to fit a double triangulated 4-link, so uppers are converging in the center. The combination of the
                              housing size and lift height (or lack of lift height) put the double whammy on it.




                              Kevin

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