Once a Postal 67 800 Build

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    Once a Postal 67 800 Build

    This is the build of my 67 800 we got for free. The original drivetrain and all the postal specific parts had been removed, but it had a good frame and a rust free body and that was all I really planned on using anyways.

    The plan:
    Junkyard 5.3 out of a 2003 silverado

    NV3500

    NP241c with Tom Woods SYE

    92 F-350 Dana 60 Narrowed 5 inches with 4.10 gears

    95 14 Bolt with c&c hubs and 4.10 gears

    Radius Arms and 18 inch coilovers on the front

    4-Link and 14 inch coilovers in the rear

    Jeep ZJ steering box with Barnes TRE flip
    Last edited by LScout800; 08-28-2020, 01:24 PM.

    #2
    The truck had been hit in the front passenger corner at some point, and the core support was from two different trucks. I decided to get rid of it as it fell apart as I pulled it out as it had been welded poorly. I plan on tuning the frontend at some point. This will also make it easier to package shocks, and fit the engine in.

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      #3
      For the engine and tranny I am using a junkyard 5.3 and nv3500. In order to make them fit without taking out the firewall and getting different headers I moved the front crossmember to the front of the frame and it was able to fit nicely.

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        #4
        The engine mounts were easy once I had the engine where I think it works best I positioned these frameside brackets on the frame, then used a bushing from rough stuff in them to some engine plates from barnes in order to mount the engine.

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          #5
          Next was to start on the suspension, we lifted the scout up in the air with some horses I built and pulled the old beam axle and leaf springs out from under the truck. Click image for larger version
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          Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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            #6
            Click image for larger version
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ID:	197709 I then began to cut up my new axle: a balljoint dana 60 from an f-350 that was fresh from the local junkyard for only $275. I started by throwing it under the truck in order to figure out where it worked best. Apparently by placing it where I had to cut 5 inches off the long side allowed me to match the width of the rear c&c 14 bolt and also put the pumpkin where I would have far more uptravel. Click image for larger version
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            Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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              #7
              I cleaned off the stock brackets, and trimmed 5 inches off the long side. I sent the long side shaft up to dutchman to get shortened. They did a very nice job sorry no pictures. I also did a cut and turn on the passenger side for better caster/pinion angles. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197721 I then notched the driver side a little for the radius arm bracket, I cut around 3/8 of an inch to either side to allow for a better weld to the tube and cast. Click image for larger version
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              Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                #8
                I then tacked up some brackets and cut some tube to get the axle located. I used Johnny joints on the frame and barnes forged bushings on the axle and link ends. The brackets are all from barnes except for the radius arm bracket on the axle it is from ballistic. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197717 I then had to bend the panhard in order to clear the massive dana 60 pumpkin at full stuff. Click image for larger version
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                Once I had the axle setup where I wanted it I pulled it apart and welded the brackets on then painted it and the links. Click image for larger version
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                Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                  #9
                  I then threw some old worn out 35s on it in order to get an idea of how it would sit. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197723 Click image for larger version
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ID:	197724 The next order of business was the steering, which utilized a steering box from a zj and a steering kit from barnes. I mounted the box by running some small tubes through the frame then plating the top tube as it sat on top of the frame. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197725 I shortened the stock scout steering column then ground it square so I could use the collapse able zj steering shaft.
                  Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                    #10
                    For the transmission mount I was able to use the stock crossmember, I just removed the old mount and drilled two holes for the gm mount on the nv3500. I notched it to clear the mount and also the front CV yoke. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197728 The shifter sits where I wanted it although it needs to get bent out in order to clear the steering wheel when shifting into first. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197729 I also had to cut out the floor some in order to fit the transfer case and CV joint. Click image for larger version
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                    Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                      #11
                      The coilover mounts use hoops from barnes and go through the frame. They are also played on the frame for maximum strength. I welded them on the bottom to prevent fatiguing of the welds. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197731 I welded in a crossover piece to keep them from bending in and painted them. Click image for larger version
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ID:	197732 I then dropped the frontend on it's own weight for the first time.
                      Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                        #12
                        I flipped it around in my garage for prepreation on the rear 4 link and dropped the old dana 44 in prepreation for the 14 bolt. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198222 I did the sye on the transfer case. Nice part from tom woods went together easily. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198223 The johnny joints for the rear end, also very nice. Click image for larger version
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                        And that is how it sits as of right now. I am going to put the transfer case back in and begin to tack brackets and cut tube for the 4 link tommarrow.
                        Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                          #13
                          I finished up the transfer case then threw it back into the truck. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198236 After that I was able to see where to place the frameside bracket as I wanted it as far forward as possible without interfering with my transfer case. In order to do that the stock e-break crossmember mount had to go and I cleaned the frame a bit. I then tacked the mounts in from barnes. They are a combo bracket with adjustable uppers and look like they were designed to be there. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198237 Next was the axle mounts, I put the outer mounts as far over as possible in order to get as much triangulation as possible and still clear the nut on the brakes. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198238 The upper mounts had to mount over the pumpkin, so I used this link truss from barnes to clear it and give me a place to mount them. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198239 I also put the mounts themselves on it. I know it looks wierd as they are offset to the side of the truss, but that is actually the center of the axle. I put some Johnny joints in the brackets and measured for tube, but did not get that cut as it was getting late. I will do that today and maybe get to flex the rear end a bit.
                          Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                            #14
                            I also threw a slightly less worn out 35 on it just to see what it will end up sitting like. I like the stance of it.Click image for larger version
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                            Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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                              #15
                              I cut the links and threw them on the truck in order to start having fun and flexing the rear axle.
                              The upper links hit the rear crossmember at full compression, but this does not seem like a huge deal to me as the suspension will not flex this much without major body modifications. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198248 I threw a tire on to get a real world idea of how much flex I would get. This gave me 6 inches of uptravel and 8 of down before the tire wanted to custom clearance the fender. Click image for larger version
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ID:	198249 Click image for larger version
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                              A 35 fits quite nicely. It has enough room to clear the fender at full bump. If I ever wanted to run a bigger tire, like a 37 or 38 I could leave the suspension alone I would just have to widen up the fender openings a bit. Which I might do, but put in the extra effort to keep the fender opening looking stock much like they did on the ultimate adventure scout 80 in 4wor.
                              Last edited by LScout800; 1 week ago.

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