Quick D44 8 lug conversion question

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    Quick D44 8 lug conversion question

    I asked on the other forum but it's fucked and not looking for it.

    I have a 77 F-150 HP D44. I'd like to go 8 lug.

    It looks like I can get a 79+ GM D44 that's 8 lug for cheap. I should be able to steal the knuckles out off of it and go, right? It will increase the track width a bit, but I don't remember by how much? 2-3"?

    Also I think the 79 and up GM used a regular locking hub instead of that bolt on external garbage that my 76 does?

    #2
    You are correct, you can run GM D44 or 10 bolt 8 lug stuff, which you can get for cheap. I've bought complete 8 lug 10 bolts for $100, and seen them given away. The GM stuff is all 6 bolt spindles/knuckles (where the spindle bolts to the knuckle). IIRC, your Ford D44 will have 5 bolt spindles/knuckles (again to the knuckle, not at the week). So you'll need to put the GM knuckles on also.

    I'd plan to run the GM brakes, I've never looked into it except that I know they're different.

    There might be a slight difference in height of the factory steering arms, if that matters to you.

    There are ways to run the 5 bolt spindles with 8 lug hubs, but I think it's easier to just run all the GM stuff, so that in 5 years, you aren't scratching your head for what wheel bearing you need.

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      #3
      So long as your ford inners are 297 ujoints yes.

      I was going to mention it in your other thread but you started going on about brakes.

      If'n yer smart youll find some early flat top knuckles. Then stab what ever you want for gm outers on there.
      :ogre:

      Comment


        #4
        https://irate4x4.com/ford/38598-conv...age2#post40798

        More or less explains what I'll wind up doing on the second page. The width change looks like it should be minimal, 5/8" wider or so. I don't really need a passenger side flat top since I won't be able to fit high steer. Unless the added meat actually addresses a weakness in them?

        I also don't even have the shafts for the Ford housing, so it's fairly academic. I think I'm going to order some aftermarket crap when the time comes.

        Comment


          #5
          We did this swap on my buddy's Bronco a long time ago, using 10-bolt stuff. The only problem I remember is there was a slight camber mismatch between all the stuff. There are camber shims available that go between the spindle and knuckle, I think we had to do like 1.5 degrees on each side, but just keep that in mind when you bolt everything together and it might look bent.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by vetteboy79 View Post
            We did this swap on my buddy's Bronco a long time ago, using 10-bolt stuff. The only problem I remember is there was a slight camber mismatch between all the stuff. There are camber shims available that go between the spindle and knuckle, I think we had to do like 1.5 degrees on each side, but just keep that in mind when you bolt everything together and it might look bent.
            Interesting. Offset balljoints is the better way to do it, IMHO. Those camber shims tend to shit themselves out eventually.

            I guess I can throw them on and see what the ol' angle of the dangle meter says.

            Comment


              #7
              I swapped everything knuckles-out including the stub shafts from a free 10 bolt onto a 78 ford d44 and it worked fine. I think I flipped the tie rod and cut-sleeved-welded it but it might have been a different one. I know I bought a 7 degree reamer for some reason.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by 78bronco460 View Post
                I swapped everything knuckles-out including the stub shafts from a free 10 bolt onto a 78 ford d44 and it worked fine. I think I flipped the tie rod and cut-sleeved-welded it but it might have been a different one. I know I bought a 7 degree reamer for some reason.
                I'm probably going to flip the tie rod. That's down the road though, getting things to at least sorta fit is the first step.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Scott Cee aka 2drx4 View Post
                  I asked on the other forum but it's fucked and not looking for it.

                  I have a 77 F-150 HP D44. I'd like to go 8 lug.

                  It looks like I can get a 79+ GM D44 that's 8 lug for cheap. I should be able to steal the knuckles out off of it and go, right? It will increase the track width a bit, but I don't remember by how much? 2-3"?

                  Also I think the 79 and up GM used a regular locking hub instead of that bolt on external garbage that my 76 does?

                  the width increase is WMS only and keeps the existing shafts?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Width increase is in the hub, so the same inner shafts fit, it's also trivial, 5/8" was posted in the link above.

                    There are different outer shafts for Ford vs. Chevy/Full Size Jeep, so you'd want to use the Chevy ones with the Chevy outers.

                    As I recall, the difference is in the retaining ring location, and you can get by with either if you just don't install a retaining ring on the outer shaft.

                    Comment

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