Spal brushless fan?

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    Spal brushless fan?

    Anyone using or used a Spal brushless fan? Thoughts? TIA

    https://www.kartek.com/parts/spal-30...uller-fan.html

    #2
    Just a FYI, this model has a 3.20" height (info from Spal tech line)

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      #3
      I just got a new C&R radiator (last week) that has 2 of the new Spal brushless fans on it. Mine run off PWM from the LS computer.


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      I'll report back when they actually spin under their own power. Hopefully, being sealed they live a long and happy life....................and move a ton of air.
      Kevin

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        #4
        How are you planning to wire it, only using PNW signal from LS or using the 2 Spal harnesses and Spal temp sensor?

        https://www.kartek.com/parts/spal-sb...l-ts-harn.html
        https://www.kartek.com/parts/spal-sb...ur-sensor.html
        https://www.kartek.com/parts/spal-38...f-195f-on.html

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          #5
          Originally posted by Chief Rocka View Post
          How are you planning to wire it, only using PNW signal from LS or using the 2 Spal harnesses and Spal temp sensor?
          PWM signal from the LS E38 ECU is the plan. I have a Gen4 LS3. I've also read where folks have had issues getting the PWM signals correct to play nice.
          Kevin

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            #6
            I started a cooling tech thread with some info on the Spals
            https://irate4x4.com/forum/general-t...oling-fan-tech

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              #7
              Slight hiccup but I got it installed with a 05 E40 ecm set to PWM electric and 128hz. At 1st it was running really slow at commanded 100% and allowed the engine to get hot. Found a hptuner post that said non-oem fans use inverse or reverse logic. 8% is full speed. Re-wrote tune and this thing blows !



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                #8
                Awesome info right there. Thanks for posting the follow up. I couldn't remember where I read that there were issues,
                Kevin

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                  #9
                  FYI for long term you should run the fans much more variable than what you have set. When you have that much control absolutely no reason to have the fans at full speed until things are REAL hot, like 230 range. Your alternator will thank you.


                  Originally posted by Chief Rocka View Post
                  Slight hiccup but I got it installed with a 05 E40 ecm set to PWM electric and 128hz. At 1st it was running really slow at commanded 100% and allowed the engine to get hot. Found a hptuner post that said non-oem fans use inverse or reverse logic. 8% is full speed. Re-wrote tune and this thing blows !



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                    #10
                    With this inverse logic aftermarket fan, 95-15 is the range. With 15 being the minimum and =25% actual fan speed. I spoke to Spal and they said 100-X=fan speed, where X is setting in tune (ie 100-5= 95% fan, 100-85=15min or 25% fan).

                    What do you suggest? In stock application when it's getting hammered, speed is probably 100+MPH. In the woods when it's getting hammered, speed is more like 10 mph... Sometimes much slower like when climbing. At what temp should a 05 alum LS2 operate, for our applications?

                    Thanks for the input.

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                      #11
                      Just off the cuff with a dual 12 setup I would think you will need the fans in the 25-30% speed range to keep temp at idle. LS engines are what 200-205 min operating temp? So think 70# around that temp and have the speed increase to like 20# around the temp you feel comfortable running in the 220-230 range then above that go full speed. Fans should likely never go full speed.

                      Remember this is different than on/off fan control you will still have cooling there vs not until the fan reaches the on point. You want the thermostat to stay open and control your temp with the fans. You may need to tweak it in on a medium hot day to get it based where you want.

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                        #12
                        My fan stopped working yesterday on a snow run. It had a PWM trigger signal from a 2005 E40 LS2 ECM. Loaded a different tune with discrete fan settings, was able to manually trigger fan wire with HP Tuners, and still nothing from the fan itself. Manual trigger sets a gnd when fan set to discrete.

                        While troubleshooting noticed the fan side white trigger wire has 12v+. Grounding white wire does not activate fan. Does that sound correct or indicate fan is fried?

                        Fan info: PN 30107125, VA91-ABL326P_N-65A, purchased in July 2020

                        Thanks for any help,
                        CR

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                          #13
                          There is a pull up resistor on the white wire to the battery positive input, you should have system voltage there when your control system is off. If you simply ground the white wire the fan will be "on" but not running. If you want to run manually you need to ground the white and power the analog (yellow). I have a rig setup with the exact fan you are using that way as the ECU is only on/off. If you have PWM available it is the way to go. Make sure your shroud is not tweaking things and causing the blade to rub the shroud.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Satan's_Minion View Post
                            There is a pull up resistor on the white wire to the battery positive input, you should have system voltage there when your control system is off. If you simply ground the white wire the fan will be "on" but not running. If you want to run manually you need to ground the white and power the analog (yellow). I have a rig setup with the exact fan you are using that way as the ECU is only on/off. If you have PWM available it is the way to go. Make sure your shroud is not tweaking things and causing the blade to rub the shroud.
                            The fan spins freely, I had it go into safe mode last year when I went thru some deep water. Thought it was dead until I cycled the ignition.

                            Yesterday, when it stopped working, the system was being controlled by PWM. The ECM fan wire was not grounding, but I only checked it while it was not up to full temp and therefore commanding ground. I didn't know grounding white and powering yellow would trick it to turn on, but I will test that. Wish I would have posted up yesterday, I'd still be on the trails!

                            What I don't understand is what changed to cause it to stop working in the 1st place. The yellow wire was never connected to anything. Any idea what signal type and/or measurement I should be looking to get from the ECM while in PWM mode?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yes you may have to cycle the signal off/on if the fan is not running when you expect it too. It should protect itself from pretty much any external influence, but that means it might not be running. What was the scenario when it was stopped recently?

                              You can check with a meter to see what rough percentage pwm you are getting, in a pinch with a simple meter use DC and check system voltage vs what you see on the white. You need to tap in while it stays connected, if you measure from ECU or fan side only you will not see the signal. %pwm * system voltage = what you should read DC. If the waveform is all shit for whatever reason the fan might still not run but you need a scope to check that.

                              You never want the white grounded permanently as it will drain the battery on the vehicle still when you key off. If you want simple on/off trigger the ground from ECU or temp switch and run switched ignition to the yellow wire. This should let the fan go to sleep once its not needed.


                              Originally posted by Chief Rocka View Post

                              The fan spins freely, I had it go into safe mode last year when I went thru some deep water. Thought it was dead until I cycled the ignition.

                              Yesterday, when it stopped working, the system was being controlled by PWM. The ECM fan wire was not grounding, but I only checked it while it was not up to full temp and therefore commanding ground. I didn't know grounding white and powering yellow would trick it to turn on, but I will test that. Wish I would have posted up yesterday, I'd still be on the trails!

                              What I don't understand is what changed to cause it to stop working in the 1st place. The yellow wire was never connected to anything. Any idea what signal type and/or measurement I should be looking to get from the ECM while in PWM mode?

                              Comment

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