Early Bronco- rear axle/ no budget

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    Early Bronco- rear axle/ no budget

    first and formost is, i dont want to work on this ever again... at this point i've told him to buy the most expensive axle his favorite site tomsbroncoparts.com offers. its only money. i value my time. yes i fully expect a 'fuck off and search', on with it...

    story- a great friend, and decent customer of mine relies on me for all his early bronco work. (i'm not a mechanic i'm a metal shop, but small town crap, i source out everything) he needs a new rear end.

    need to know- early bronco with a big bearing 9" ( not an axle guy dont know big bearing vs..?) blew out the ring gear. initially i said get a new third and bigger spine axle, 31 spline iirc. hes says they now have a 35spline. my initial thought was thats got to be more than the housing can hold up, not worth it.


    so; but all new custom rear end, or just new third and axles???

    i'm already pretty sure we'll go for the full new rear i've got to redo shock and anti-wrap bar anyway (looking into doing Raptor take off suspension next year).

    any other input?

    is toms bronco parts the place for this or who would you buy from?


    lastly; rig is running a ~350-400hp fi 302 right now, probably a 5-600hp 351 when it quits. uses are ignorant shit around town, body safe-ish trails, and the oregon dunes with paddles on the rear. it was a show quality rig but if gets used. worst incedent so far was my unbuckled brother thown from the back seat, over the roll bar and into drivers lap... doing super dumb shit. it will see all tires off the ground, again, and again as long as the smiles are more than the pain.

    attempting to add pics of the rig, let me know if it works.

    *thanks for the new home Austin, not good with words so never posted much on the p Click image for larger version
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    #2
    I just did a bunch of research on the 9".

    Basically the conclusion was that beyond a load bolt 3rd and decent gears. When you see trophy trucks and koh guys running a "9 inch" it's basically a $4k 3rd member that isn't going to last very long long at all running down the road because the gears are soft. The r&p alone literally cost $1200+

    So if you really want the best strongest axle, go with a shaved 14b.

    A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd should be pretty strong though and leaps ahead of what he's got.

    Comment


      #3
      pics of the last trip shenanigans;
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      Comment


        #4
        Honestly, beef up the axle housing with a truss, throw in a new 35 spline 3rd member and quality 35 spline axles, and I'd bet it would be fine..

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by YotaAtieToo View Post
          I just did a bunch of research on the 9".

          Basically the conclusion was that beyond a load bolt 3rd and decent gears. When you see trophy trucks and koh guys running a "9 inch" it's basically a $4k 3rd member that isn't going to last very long long at all running down the road because the gears are soft. The r&p alone literally cost $1200+

          So if you really want the best strongest axle, go with a shaved 14b.

          A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd should be pretty strong though and leaps ahead of what he's got.
          i'm going to order and bolt in, or weld tabs and such. i dont touch bearings, gears, and such (yet, always learning when time allows). his credit card on file is good for $5k, parts, he pays my time cash.

          'A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd' who would you suggest ordering from?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Poriggity View Post
            Honestly, beef up the axle housing with a truss, throw in a new 35 spline 3rd member and quality 35 spline axles, and I'd bet it would be fine..
            truss is easy, i pretty much built my businees from a plas cnc and a press brake.

            my last conversation with him was more or less the third and axles cost ? $2500? and the new housing 1k more... why go new housing or not?? i thought new has to be better, but really the toms site doesn't sound like too much more beef.





            *also i will follow up and post the new crap and install.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tracyb View Post

              i'm going to order and bolt in, or weld tabs and such. i dont touch bearings, gears, and such (yet, always learning when time allows). his credit card on file is good for $5k, parts, he pays my time cash.

              'A full float aftermarket housing with a load bolt 3rd' who would you suggest ordering from?
              You want a whole axle to show up on a pallet? I'd call Currie.

              ​​​You're talking closer to $10k for a turn key axle though.

              Comment


                #8
                WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings

                There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

                35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

                The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by YotaAtieToo View Post

                  You want a whole axle to show up on a pallet? I'd call Currie.

                  ​​​You're talking closer to $10k for a turn key axle though.
                  that would be awesome. i shouldn't have said no budget,should say 5k.


                  i'm just coming from the tomsbroncoparts site and thinking the third and axles are 2500 ish if the full built housing is going to be 1000ish more. in my mind the housing goes with the gears and axles, maight be a bit more to have them assemble it but?? well i dont know, what i dont know

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by '84 Bronco II View Post
                    WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings

                    There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

                    35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

                    The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...
                    I'd have to agree, but he said "no budget"

                    Originally posted by tracyb View Post

                    that would be awesome. i shouldn't have said no budget,should say 5k.


                    i'm just coming from the tomsbroncoparts site and thinking the third and axles are 2500 ish if the full built housing is going to be 1000ish more. in my mind the housing goes with the gears and axles, maight be a bit more to have them assemble it but?? well i dont know, what i dont know
                    I got a quote from Ruffstuff for a bare housing with spindles welded on. $1200, so you're not far off there.

                    $1800 for a load bolt, Detroit, 5.xx 3rd.

                    Shafts vary a lot, but $700 is probably right on.

                    Brakes aren't super expensive, but it is something, probably $300 all said and done.

                    ​​​​​​You should be able to do it for $5k semi float, not sure about full float. But as mentioned, it's probably not necessary.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I don't have answers, but I'm glad you're here posting
                      - Buck

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by '84 Bronco II View Post
                        WTF? The guy breaks a ring gear that probably wasn't setup right or had some other issue and everyone is talking about bigger shafts and housings

                        There is no way a healthy 9" ring and pinion should break before the stock 28 spline shafts. That rig looks like it is on 33" tires or so. The stock gear set and some 31 spline axles should hold up reasonably well. If he is jumping it, sure, add a truss.

                        35 spline axles are overkill in my opinion, and you can't run them in a stock 3rd anyways unless you run a spool. If you truly think he is exceeding the strength of the gear set, and it wasn't a fluke, get a 35 spline Gear set (big pinion), and a load bolt aftermarket case with a Daytona pinion support. Once you get into the 9.5" & 10" stuff, things start to get stupid expensive and many of those gear sets are for competition use and are soft and wear out quickly with street use.

                        The cheapest and easiest answer is to put a Sterling 10.25/10.5, Dana 70, or 14 bolt under it, but getting the front to match or modifying the rear to match the front is not cheap and easy...


                        it was definitely a bad install. ive only got a couple pics ill add.

                        this is a rig my buddy's had since he could drive, put more money into than some new exotic car. but it always, slowly, gets better. even though its beat on. cheap and easy is my go to, but not on this one. it hard to explain but me and him both built our business's together, he trusts me blindly (well to 5k, see pre), and has paid me more than its worth working on it. i know what i'm good at and its not this

                        he's a ford guy and 9ich is ford (by his terms, but i think its only been ford?)

                        this axle needs to be able to handle the next motor he puts in. and when that motor goes in it will probably get a 9" front (and in a couple more years a bigger budget)
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                        Comment


                          #13
                          think i screwed something up on the last post. bed now. i'll look back tommorow. thanks for the input

                          Comment


                            #14
                            This is straight off curries website. Bolt in EB 9", painted, 35 spline and Detroit, explorer Disk brakes shipped to your door for $4200. If you want to truss it, save the $200 forgo the paint and slap it on once you get the axle in house. Boom...Under budget.
                            88 Ford F-turd50 IDI Crawler

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Toreadorranger View Post
                              This is straight off curries website. Bolt in EB 9", painted, 35 spline and Detroit, explorer Disk brakes shipped to your door for $4200. If you want to truss it, save the $200 forgo the paint and slap it on once you get the axle in house. Boom...Under budget.
                              BOOM is right!

                              i just sent txt him a link to that page, and he immediately called wanting to buy it. so looks like a winner. the way i optioned it was $3890 i'll put a truss, shock mounts, the anti wrap bar mount. and then send to my powder coat guy.


                              i'm going to wait until the end of the day, maybe monday, before pulling the trigger.

                              Comment

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