My bathroom renovation

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    My bathroom renovation

    We bought a 1977 house about 3 years ago that was mostly renovated aesthetically in the 90s. Our plans are to renovate the entire house slowly over the next few years as we live in it and figure out what we want. This thread is about the guest bathroom which really hasn't been touched since '77. It needed the most help out of the rest of the house, and it would give us a chance to test subs and ideas before tackling other bathrooms or parts of the house.

    Our plans are a full gut down to the studs with new plumbing and new wiring. Marble tile floor and shower, marble counter top on the vanity, two sided glass shower panels and all high end Kohler equipment. I'm doing most of the work myself except for the plumbing and tile. I can do the plumbing, but I want to see what the pros do first to see what's code.

    I didn't get any before pictures, but you can imagine old subway tile in the shower, cast iron tub, old double vanity and 1990s cheap tile floor.

    Popping off the old mirror, didn't break it







    Removing the old tile in the shower. There was about 1.5" of mortar on the wire lath. 1700 pounds of tile and mortar were removed from the shower itself.











    Last edited by Deuce 40s; 05-24-2020, 06:19 AM.

    #2
    Originally we were going to keep the shower footprint exactly as original, with 3 tiled walls and a glass door. However, once I removed all the sheetrock, the wife really like how open the room looked. The partition between the shitter and the shower had to come down.








    To support the weight of the glass panels and glass door hinges, I had to build some stout studs.




    I added insulation to all the walls for sound deadening and installed blocking in the walls for the towel rack, bog roll holder, etc.










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      #3
      very nice.
      looks to be a clean looking bathroom.

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        #4
        Like I said, I wanted some pro plumbers to remove the old and install everything new. I've used this company in the past for a tankless water heater install, and it went fairly well. However on this job, I'm not happy with how they left the sink vent pipe. It was proud of the wall at least 1.5" and I didn't notice until the next day when I went to pack insulation. I had to go behind them to notch out some more studs so the pipe would sit flush behind the sheetrock.

        They also installed a new toilet flange, raised the sink supply to exit above the baseboard, removed the cast iron tub, centered the shower drain under the new shower location, and put the shower head and valve on the right side wall.













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          #5
          Originally posted by jeeptj19992001 View Post
          very nice.
          looks to be a clean looking bathroom.
          Thanks. I hope the final product will be what we're expecting. I'm trying not to sacrifice any quality for cost. I'm not saying "no expense spared", but I want this bathroom to be correct and we have set high standards. Judgement falls on me to perform.

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            #6
            This is the current state of the bathroom. I'm installing crown and baseboard so those joints were left unfinished. The tile guy will install his own concrete board and water proofing membrane in the shower.









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              #7
              that is hack plumbing if i ever saw it. is that a load bearing wall? those notches are not right at all. You need a stud shoe to retain the stength. https://www.strongtie.com/miscellane...p_wcc/p/hss.ss


              https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...-5-R/100375338

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                #8
                what kind of shower pan system are you going to be using?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE View Post
                  that is hack plumbing if i ever saw it. is that a load bearing wall? those notches are not right at all. You need a stud shoe to retain the stength. https://www.strongtie.com/miscellane...p_wcc/p/hss.ss


                  https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...-5-R/100375338
                  It's not load bearing, it's just holding up sheetrock. Those notches were from the original plumbing. The new plumbing was raised about 3 inches for a higher vanity. You can see the lower notch and how far it went into the wall to keep the plumbing flush. I didn't go as deep, but I pulled it in about an inch.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by NOTHINGWILLCHANGELANCE View Post
                    what kind of shower pan system are you going to be using?
                    I can't remember the name of the company the tiler recommended, but we're going with a curbless pan, 63" x 36". A marble threshold will go around the pan between it and the glass panels.

                    All existing flooring will be removed. Right now there's tile on top of concrete board on 3/4" ply on 1x6 subfloor. I'm ripping everything out to the floor joists. In the shower, the new 3/4" subfloor will be inset of the floor joists and the pan will sit directly on the floor joists. The rest of the bathroom will have the 3/4" on top of the floor joists.

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                      #11
                      The part of the reno I was looking forward to most was building the vanity. We wanted this vanity to be more like a piece of furniture with legs than a typical vanity. The constable wanted all drawers, no cabinets. We've got enough storage space in a hall closet for larger items and cleaning supplies. The size is 62" long, 21" deep and 36" high with the countertop.

                      I used ash because it's very hard, inexpensive, and has decent grain patterns. It's tough as shit to stain though. The top two rows of drawers will be notched to clear the sinks and plumbing. I won't know how much to notch them until after everything is in place.

                      The three sconces really dictated placement of everything else. They had to be certain distances from the wall and door and the midpoints determined the sink locations.




                      All the lumber. Prefinished 1/2" birch ply for the drawers, unfinished birch for the cabinet carcass and back.




                      I glued up the 5 leg blanks, 2 1/2" square, dadoes cut to receive the face frames and make the legs stand proud of the faces evenly everywhere, tapers cut at the bottom.









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                        #12
                        Face frames and legs dry fit. One side is against a wall so it's not getting much attention.






                        Drawer faces cut and fit.




                        I'm trimming the drawer faces and cabinet with what's called "cock beading". Using ash scraps.












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                          #13
                          Great idea recessing the floor....You’re using a linear drain I take it???
                          we always drop the floor 3-4”s so we can use the pvc liner running up
                          and behind the cement board.... if he’s only requesting 3/4” recess he’s probably gonna use one of the foam board systems...all are topical cbp waterproofing only, and expensive!!!
                          just FYI!!!
                          be careful with that marble choice... we’ve done a few over the years where the customer selects an inexpensive, cheaper marble and once they started showering daily the marble started wicking the water.... changing the color and look of it!!! There are a lot of man made, more stable products
                          out there.
                          let me know if you have any questions...
                          Good luck with your project and looking forward to updates!!!

                          edit:
                          woodwork looks Fkn great!!!!
                          Last edited by Gregj50!!!!!; 05-24-2020, 08:47 AM.

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                            #14
                            I wish I knew the first thing about this stuff. Impressive to say the least.

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                              #15
                              I'm using Blum undermount soft close drawer slides. These are amazing and fully adjustable for inset drawers.






                              Cock beading around the base.












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