Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
_stucky’s FunK20
- Thread starter _stucky
- Start date
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Axle wrap?
V30crewcab
Well-known member
you forget to weld the perches or the center spun?
RunningProblem
Red Skull Member
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2020
- Member Number
- 2860
- Messages
- 2,477
Pictures of broken welds?
Any picture of the ‘before’ weld on the perch?
Any picture of the ‘before’ weld on the perch?
Cheepin
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2022
- Member Number
- 4746
- Messages
- 36
No different then a linked suspension. Just need good quality welds. Although I still prefer normal perches and U-bolts.
I don't disagree with the logic, but a good linked suspension should have more contact area and usually vertical separation of the upper links, which I'm sure helps too.
Since the axle yoke broke, replacing it involved a crush sleeve eliminator and setting up the ring and pinion. I reused the pinion shim that was there and got it to .006 backlash. I probably should have, but did not check the gear pattern. The transfer case leaked a bunch out, but I think it’s a simple fix. I had a trail gear bellows on it. It had ballooned up and blew a pin hole in it. I think the leak was from pressure blowing oil past the rear yoke seal. The seal looked fine and I put it’s back on. I’m almost back to where I was. I still need to make rear brake lines, and I think I have water in the gas again.
I was laying under it yesterday trying to figure out where to put the o2 sensors. Is there any reason they can’t be side by side right in front of the first muffler that I’m using as a Y? Or should they be close to the manifolds, on each side, like a factory setup?
Several years ago, I was at my buddy’s shop. He has a 72 (I think) 5.3 swapped c10 (pretty sure it’s in some of the pics from his shop) (the 66 c10 with the patina paint job is also 5.3 swapped). I wanted to sound deaden my s10 at the time, and his was sitting there partially gutted, so I did his truck first. While doing that, a neighbor and an old friend of my dad’s came in asking my buddy about whether he should ls swap his old truck (74 c10). He saw what I was doing and wanted me to do his. Well he finally got ahold of me. He has completely redone his cab with new sheet metal, an all new parts bed, bright red paint, etc etc. It’s absolutely beautiful. He didn’t do an ls though, it’s a worked over sbc and a th350. Anyways, I spent part of last week at his shop putting in sound deadener. That makes such a huge difference in a bare cab. He got stuff from lmc, 2 types. One had foam on it, I did the firewall and the trans tunnel with that, and stuff without foam everywhere else. We went through my parts stashes and snagged a couple things he was missing. He has had that truck since 77. I told him he is going to be scared to drive it with it being so clean. I should have taken some pics, but didn’t.
I was laying under it yesterday trying to figure out where to put the o2 sensors. Is there any reason they can’t be side by side right in front of the first muffler that I’m using as a Y? Or should they be close to the manifolds, on each side, like a factory setup?
Several years ago, I was at my buddy’s shop. He has a 72 (I think) 5.3 swapped c10 (pretty sure it’s in some of the pics from his shop) (the 66 c10 with the patina paint job is also 5.3 swapped). I wanted to sound deaden my s10 at the time, and his was sitting there partially gutted, so I did his truck first. While doing that, a neighbor and an old friend of my dad’s came in asking my buddy about whether he should ls swap his old truck (74 c10). He saw what I was doing and wanted me to do his. Well he finally got ahold of me. He has completely redone his cab with new sheet metal, an all new parts bed, bright red paint, etc etc. It’s absolutely beautiful. He didn’t do an ls though, it’s a worked over sbc and a th350. Anyways, I spent part of last week at his shop putting in sound deadener. That makes such a huge difference in a bare cab. He got stuff from lmc, 2 types. One had foam on it, I did the firewall and the trans tunnel with that, and stuff without foam everywhere else. We went through my parts stashes and snagged a couple things he was missing. He has had that truck since 77. I told him he is going to be scared to drive it with it being so clean. I should have taken some pics, but didn’t.
I drained 4 gallons of gas out. First one had like 2 inches of water in the bottom, second one had like an inch in the bottom. The third and fourth ones had just a very very small amount on the bottom. It runs fine again. I put a better, much fatter o ring on the gas cap gizmo, so I’ll see if that’s helps anything. I won’t be able to keep it park inside all the time. I also bent up and flared hardlines for the brakes, but didn’t have anyone around to help bleed them. Hopefully today I’ll get someone to come over. And hopefully early next week I’ll be back to the steering pump. It still whines like crazy. The alternator seems to be working as it should.
Cheepin
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2022
- Member Number
- 4746
- Messages
- 36
True. But even a perch and u-bolt set up will rotate if not welded properly. Point is with a quality weld this won't happen.
Sunday I welded in the o2 sensor bungs. When I asked if they could be back a ways, I hadn’t googled anything. Well, the internet told me they need to be less than 18 inches from the collector, so they heat up to 600 degrees. And we all know to trust the internet. So they are like 4-5 inches back.
So back to the alternator. My axle swapped vortec 5.7’d s10 has the same alternator, and it’s been down with... issues... I had grabbed that alternator and put it on the k20. I did get the junkyard alternator, and instead of putting the s10’s alternator back, the junkyard one went on it. S10’s alternator did work in the s10, it’s been there for years, but the truck has basically sat for almost 2 years. It did seem to work in the k20, I fully expected it to. But last night I went for a drive and barely made it home. I saw like 6.8 volts on my code reader when pulling in the driveway.
Anyways. Today’s plan. Jump start k20 and fly to our shop before it dies, put the charger on it, grab tools, pull the junkyard alternator from the s10, and head to my buddy’s shop 1/2 hour away to swap on another power steering pump. Before jumping it, I tried the key, fired up. Hmm. 11 volts. Fly to our shop, grab stuff, charger was on it maybe 20 minutes. I head to town and it died after the second time I had to hit the brakes. Get a ride back to our shop, grab the s10’s battery, put it in, and it got me to town. Got another steering pump, swapped it and the junkyard alternator on, and charged both batteries.
I filled the reservoir, worked the wheel back and forth, let it run for a good 30-45 minutes, checking voltage and working the wheel every so often. Voltage is good, just above 14v. The whole time it was sitting there running, the pump never really whined. But as soon as I left, it was squalling just like it had been before. But this time, I don’t see any bubbles. So I’m still scratching my head on the steering pump. It really does seem to function fine, just loud as could be. It turns nice and easy. I might try putting the factory line back in and take the factory squarebody cooler back off. When I put it on, the pump seemed louder than without it.
Next thing I plan to do is find the pigtails for the o2 sensors and get them wired in. My harness had 1, and with all the gm stuff I have around, I would think I have another. I just need to find it. I found them on amazon for like 20$, but I don’t want buy it.
So back to the alternator. My axle swapped vortec 5.7’d s10 has the same alternator, and it’s been down with... issues... I had grabbed that alternator and put it on the k20. I did get the junkyard alternator, and instead of putting the s10’s alternator back, the junkyard one went on it. S10’s alternator did work in the s10, it’s been there for years, but the truck has basically sat for almost 2 years. It did seem to work in the k20, I fully expected it to. But last night I went for a drive and barely made it home. I saw like 6.8 volts on my code reader when pulling in the driveway.
Anyways. Today’s plan. Jump start k20 and fly to our shop before it dies, put the charger on it, grab tools, pull the junkyard alternator from the s10, and head to my buddy’s shop 1/2 hour away to swap on another power steering pump. Before jumping it, I tried the key, fired up. Hmm. 11 volts. Fly to our shop, grab stuff, charger was on it maybe 20 minutes. I head to town and it died after the second time I had to hit the brakes. Get a ride back to our shop, grab the s10’s battery, put it in, and it got me to town. Got another steering pump, swapped it and the junkyard alternator on, and charged both batteries.
I filled the reservoir, worked the wheel back and forth, let it run for a good 30-45 minutes, checking voltage and working the wheel every so often. Voltage is good, just above 14v. The whole time it was sitting there running, the pump never really whined. But as soon as I left, it was squalling just like it had been before. But this time, I don’t see any bubbles. So I’m still scratching my head on the steering pump. It really does seem to function fine, just loud as could be. It turns nice and easy. I might try putting the factory line back in and take the factory squarebody cooler back off. When I put it on, the pump seemed louder than without it.
Next thing I plan to do is find the pigtails for the o2 sensors and get them wired in. My harness had 1, and with all the gm stuff I have around, I would think I have another. I just need to find it. I found them on amazon for like 20$, but I don’t want buy it.
This truck has survived a week of my shenanigans. The steering pump stopped squalling. It doesn’t ride terrible across a corn field with the pedal to the floor. It has not broken, yet, from multiple pedal to the floor launches on pavement. I don’t necessarily drive hard or fast, but I want to not break it if I do. The quiet exhuast, the sound deadener, and the not aggressive tires make it actually pretty nice for a leisurely cruise on country roads. I saw my dad hop in it Saturday and go fly across a field. He secretly likes it, but won’t tell anyone. I just wish he’d stop scratching his back on the rust. I don’t want him ripping off the trim with his shirt. I do need some sort of a hitch. I’ve had to switch trucks twice this week to pull trailers. The goal of this truck is just to use it, as a truck. And it needs to be reliable to do that.
Levigarrett76
Zeus of the Sluice
Damn stupid thing i keep missing threads I am watching.
This truck weighs about 5600 pounds. That’s without me, but with the toolboxes, and I don’t know how much gas in it.
For the packout boxes, I had them in front of the passenger side shock. But I don’t like climbing in the bed to get something. I have been carrying a step ladder but it’s still inconvenient. The only reason I put them there was I didn’t want to drop the tank to put in bolts. I ordered a rivnut tool, and moved it back here.
The steering pump is hit or miss with the squalling still. It usually doesn’t, but still sometimes does. Still drives fine without bubbles.
A few days ago, I turned the truck off, but I had left the window down. I caught myself flip the key on, crank the window up, and turn the key back off. It’s manual windows...
I did find another o2 sensor plug in my stash o’ junk. But it had a different size wire, so I just ordered 2 new ones and some more wire loom.
Swapped from dual to single tank now fuel gauge wont read
Swapped from dual to single tank now fuel gauge wont read
forum.73-87chevytrucks.com
I now have a working gas gauge.
Well, what I thought I saw wasn’t the issue. I learned nothing yesterday except the vss wires have continuity to the computer, and the speedometer wire has continually to the gauge. I’m going to try a different vss and see what happens.
So I am getting a tcc pwm and a tfp code. I am leaning towards they both just need turned off. A th400 doesn’t have a lockup converter or any pressure sensor.
Back to the power steering, yesterday the line to the factory squarebody cooler blew, so the original truck’s low pressure line went back on. At first, it was squalling and foamy, but it settled down after a little drive and more fluid. I haven’t driven very far yet, we will see what happens.
Back to the power steering, yesterday the line to the factory squarebody cooler blew, so the original truck’s low pressure line went back on. At first, it was squalling and foamy, but it settled down after a little drive and more fluid. I haven’t driven very far yet, we will see what happens.
The Freeak
Pro-Crastinator
Cool build!
What front spring hangers are you running?
Curious- not critical - why did you plate the outside of the frame, but not box it in?
What front spring hangers are you running?
Curious- not critical - why did you plate the outside of the frame, but not box it in?
The front spring and shackle hangers both are diy4x. 6 inch long diy4x shackles as well. Springs are 52s from the rear of an 87 k5.
I plated the frame because it looked way easier than boxing it. I saw that kit and in my head I thought, I bet this isn’t around forever, so I bought it.
4xstore.com
If I add more to the frame, I think I will just make maybe like 6 inch long rectangles and space them out along the inside. But for what I’m doing with it, I really doubt it’s necessary. This truck isn’t going to see hard off road abuse (often at least). I’m just using this as a farm/work truck/daily driver. It needs to be reliable, carry some tools, have room to throw broken junk, and look cool doing it.
The tune guy is used to lowered trucks and track cars, I think he was surprised when he saw this in person.
I plated the frame because it looked way easier than boxing it. I saw that kit and in my head I thought, I bet this isn’t around forever, so I bought it.
1973-1991 GM Squarebody Frame Plates
We're here to help you wheel with the right parts! Reliable offroad and 4 wheel drive parts from top manufacturers! Free Shipping on orders $99+!
4xstore.com
If I add more to the frame, I think I will just make maybe like 6 inch long rectangles and space them out along the inside. But for what I’m doing with it, I really doubt it’s necessary. This truck isn’t going to see hard off road abuse (often at least). I’m just using this as a farm/work truck/daily driver. It needs to be reliable, carry some tools, have room to throw broken junk, and look cool doing it.
The tune guy is used to lowered trucks and track cars, I think he was surprised when he saw this in person.