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Alright I'm looking for some input on moving my battery

The backstory is it's already in the cab, and I'm wanting to move it in the cab to free up some cargo space, it won't be much but whatever

I'm thinking about mounting it "floating" like the picture below shows

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I'm thinking one diagonal down leg kinda how it's seen above, and then have a another leg come off and do a saddle and hose clamp to the role cage

Rough diagram below

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More pictures so you can see the general area

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Thoughts? Bad idea?

I know in a roll it's not the ideal set up, but with the cage and the top there if the battery gets fawked in a roll that might be the least of my problems
 
This is the old setup for reference, really just any setup thats an improvement over this would be nice

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Arickvan said:
This is the old setup for reference, really just any setup thats an improvement over this would be nice

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Click to expand...
Why not keep it under the hood? Not like you don't have the room.
 
Why such a big box for the battery in its current location? All you need are the terminals insulated.

The design seems okay, as long as it’s secured well.
 
2 86s said:
Why not keep it under the hood? Not like you don't have the room.
Click to expand...
I've got the big arb compressor mounted under the hood, the previous owner moved the battery originally and had a viar compressor there
 
FleshEater said:
Why such a big box for the battery in its current location? All you need are the terminals insulated.

The design seems okay, as long as it’s secured well.
Click to expand...
The big box was a quickie solution like 6 years ago :homer:

I got these terminals ordered with pretty nice covers, I just worry about all my camping shit moving around back there

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I'm having a hard time finding some heavy duty terminal insulators
 
Arickvan said:
I've got the big arb compressor mounted under the hood, the previous owner moved the battery originally and had a viar compressor there
Click to expand...
Take a picture of your engine compartment. You should be able to find a place for your compressor and get the battery back under the hood. I get remote batteries in race cars and buggies but in a full body rig, you're creating more work and loosing cargo space.
 
I would mount the battery level as it would suck some ass changing the battery at an angle, especially since that TG battery box is garbage (I have one in my bed and hate it). Plus depending on how you design that shelf coming off the cage, you could get some extra triangulation on that rear pillar. I will say it is nice not having the battering trying it's best to rip the wheel well apart and fall out with it under the hood.
 
2 86s said:
Take a picture of your engine compartment. You should be able to find a place for your compressor and get the battery back under the hood. I get remote batteries in race cars and buggies but in a full body rig, you're creating more work and loosing cargo space.
Click to expand...
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FleshEater said:
What about mounting it under the truck?
Click to expand...
I could look, I've never been a fan of that

I was thinking about it and i might try to do like a plasti-dip mold of the top of the battery with the terminals all hooked up, make a big rubber condom topper for it basically
 
Arickvan said:
Eh maybe? I'm saving the under hood rearrangement for when I get new shocks, and have to do bigger shock mounts

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Click to expand...
Yeah, you have 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag. But, you could get it under the hood where it belongs if you wanted. Carry on!
 
I've been slowly tinkering on this, lots of project add

I did the tauler jack from Mieser , just recently built a mount for it this weekend

Ordered some new prp seats so I've been tinkering with mounts and what not before those show up

Finished up the battery box and baby shark cage shock cover

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And I forgot I did a couple things to strap down my spare parts in the "trunk"

There's another bag that I put in there with straps that I didn't take a pic of

I also swapped out the bolts on the hard top and added tie down points to all of them

Everything has always been loose and unstrapped in the back and I'm sure it's just a disaster waiting to happen

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They fit! ....Kinda.... I'm going to add some steel plates and raise the cage for now in the short term

Long term I need a new cage

I was thinking about cutting the floor and lowering the seats but there's not a ton of room to be gained there

Rear seats reupholstered and I need to finish up the harness's

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Alright I got the cage shimmed up a 1/2", swapped all the bolts for grade 8 aaaaaaand it's better, I was hoping to get a full inch of plates in there but that wasn't happening

I'll run it the way it is for a bit and see how I feel about it, the only reason I feel good enough to run it now is the fancy cage padding that I have, you can see some in the pics

Also try doing this with a hi lift :flipoff2: Mieser

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Got another important wheeling upgrade finished this weekend..... new stereo :flipoff2:

new 6 1/2's in the doors, 6x9's in the back seat panels, 10" sub and 5 channel amp

sounds good :smokin: need to play with the amp a bit i think to tune it in

but better than the cheapy version i had in there

packaging is always an issue so i tucked it all under the new battery mount, the sub I'm leaving loose for now

unloaded it wedges behind the seat good, and loaded I'll move it and probably stack gear on top of it

I'll eventually do some kind of mounts for it, I'm thinking at least some permanent bungie cord type set up so i can move it from unloaded spot to loaded spot

I also pulled out a bunch of junk wiring from the rear chase light bar :barf:

that thing was dumb and over complicated, I'm planning on wiring up some rear KC rock lights or similar as chase lights in the future
 
Looks like the 4runner weighs 4450lbs trail tools and fluids only

2100 lbs front and 2350lbs rear

As long as this sherline tongue weight scale is correct :homer:
 
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