the_white_shadow
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 27, 2020
- Member Number
- 1565
- Messages
- 398
I picked up 1992 4runner with the 3VZE 3.0l Auto 4wd a few weeks ago and i am now trying to get it running. Back story is that it sat for 10+ years, maybe more, and the reason it was parked was due to a bad transmission. PO supposedly swapped in a junkyard transmission but it still "wouldnt run right" so they parked it. Completely stock as far as i can tell. It has the tow package and 4.88s.
First attempt to start it was just throwing a battery and seeing what would happen. Turns out it had a broken timing belt. The 3.0 is a non-interference engine so no worries there. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc and quadruple checked timing and all is good there. Currently the front cover is off the engine so i can keep check on timing, so no other accessories are connected to the engine, i.e alternator, PS pump, etc. Battery is fully charged.
I am using a temporary fuel system as the has tank looked like it could have been on the Titanic. Pump laying in the bottom, holes in the top, etc. Kind of surprising as the rest of the 4runner is basically rust free. So my temp fuel system is a walbro 255 inline pump running out of a gas can to the factory fuel feed line to the fuel rail. Return line is to a separate gas tank. It has plenty of pressure at the rail.
Currently it will try to start for 1-2 seconds then die. I pulled the code from the ecu and it is flashing a code 14, which means the igniter isnt talking to the ECU and/or vice versa.
CEL is on with the key on and while cranking. When it tries to fire for the 1-2 seconds, its goes off. I have cleared the code by pulling the EFI fuse numerous times. No change.
I have replaced the coil. No change.
I have ran jumper wires from the IGT and IGF wires on the igniter directly to the IGT and IGF wires on the ecu to bypass any potential breaks/shorts in the wiring. No change.
I ran a jumper for the IG- wire (green wire) on the distributor to the ecu. No Change I plan on doing the same with the other 3 distributor wires. Also distributor coil pickups are confirmed good with ohm meter. Distributor was pointing correctly when checking for timing.
Put a ground directly to the igniter to the battery. No change.
Swapped out AFM with a known good one. No change. I havent ohm tested either one though.
Im running out of ideas. I bought a cheap Chinese igniter on Amazon that should be in tomorrow to try out. I am going to order new gas tank, pump, etc, but i dont think thats the problem.
Is there some type of security bullshit on these? I removed the aftermarket alarm from under the dash along with 10lbs of wiring that was scotch locked under there. I have no fob or anything. Just a plain key. Could it be a neutral safety switch? Tried to start it in neutral and same.
Clearly the ECU isnt telling the injectors to fire, as i can put some starting fluid into the intake tube and it will try to run longer.
Thoughts?
First attempt to start it was just throwing a battery and seeing what would happen. Turns out it had a broken timing belt. The 3.0 is a non-interference engine so no worries there. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc and quadruple checked timing and all is good there. Currently the front cover is off the engine so i can keep check on timing, so no other accessories are connected to the engine, i.e alternator, PS pump, etc. Battery is fully charged.
I am using a temporary fuel system as the has tank looked like it could have been on the Titanic. Pump laying in the bottom, holes in the top, etc. Kind of surprising as the rest of the 4runner is basically rust free. So my temp fuel system is a walbro 255 inline pump running out of a gas can to the factory fuel feed line to the fuel rail. Return line is to a separate gas tank. It has plenty of pressure at the rail.
Currently it will try to start for 1-2 seconds then die. I pulled the code from the ecu and it is flashing a code 14, which means the igniter isnt talking to the ECU and/or vice versa.
CEL is on with the key on and while cranking. When it tries to fire for the 1-2 seconds, its goes off. I have cleared the code by pulling the EFI fuse numerous times. No change.
I have replaced the coil. No change.
I have ran jumper wires from the IGT and IGF wires on the igniter directly to the IGT and IGF wires on the ecu to bypass any potential breaks/shorts in the wiring. No change.
I ran a jumper for the IG- wire (green wire) on the distributor to the ecu. No Change I plan on doing the same with the other 3 distributor wires. Also distributor coil pickups are confirmed good with ohm meter. Distributor was pointing correctly when checking for timing.
Put a ground directly to the igniter to the battery. No change.
Swapped out AFM with a known good one. No change. I havent ohm tested either one though.
Im running out of ideas. I bought a cheap Chinese igniter on Amazon that should be in tomorrow to try out. I am going to order new gas tank, pump, etc, but i dont think thats the problem.
Is there some type of security bullshit on these? I removed the aftermarket alarm from under the dash along with 10lbs of wiring that was scotch locked under there. I have no fob or anything. Just a plain key. Could it be a neutral safety switch? Tried to start it in neutral and same.
Clearly the ECU isnt telling the injectors to fire, as i can put some starting fluid into the intake tube and it will try to run longer.
Thoughts?